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Allowable Cooker Connection Unit outlet plate positions behind built-in oven?

Yeah with 2.5mm cable you want 16 or 20.

Then just connect the oven up to the CCU and don’t worry about it

So you would not be concerned about the Bosch specs explicitly stating "13A fuse protection"?
(Could they not get out of any problem by saying 'you did not have 13A fuse protection'?)


(I have noticed the cable supplied with the oven is rated 16A, so what is the "13A fuse protection" requirement supposed to be protecting - this cable, or components in the oven, or both ???)
 
(I have noticed the cable supplied with the oven is rated 16A, so what is the "13A fuse protection" requirement supposed to be protecting - this cable, or components in the oven, or both ???)
Fuses etc. are for protecting the cable.
What will they do in Boschland and the surrounding countries where such things (13A fuses) are not used?

If the appliance requires internal overload protection the manufacturer will have fitted it.
 
What will they do in Boschland and the surrounding countries where such things (13A fuses) are not used?

Very good point!

I know even less about electrics in mainland Europe as I do about electrics in UK!! but I did find it interesting that when I was investigating the possibility of a 13A MCB (because the oven spec said hardwired with 13A fuse protection, so I thought maybe, etc. etc. ...), while 13A MCBs are not generally found in UK, Hager (my CU is Hager with Hager MCBs) do produce a 13A MCB, which only seems to be readily available to get hold of in mainland Europe and not in the UK. Perhaps they could/would use a 13A MCB in Boschland ???
 
So, would you use a 13A FCU then to provide this "13A fuse protection" Bosch seem to want in the UK?
No. The oven does not need a 13A fuse.

If it were part of a cooker (in the UK) it would get a 32A MCB.



That they state fuse in this day and age and a rating less than the cable supplied proves they do not know what they are talking/writing about.
 
That they state fuse in this day and age and a rating less than the cable supplied proves they do not know what they are talking/writing about.
(y):LOL: Don't beat about the bush, come straight out with it!

Reading through their manual / installation instructions, even I have been wondering about that! I get the impression the manual is a bit of a generic cut and paste job.
 
I have seen a couple of single ovens on my travels through my career fed via a 13A breaker and a DP switch.

But not all manufacturers make that size.
 
Indeed, manufactures tend to make "standard sizes" although they would probably make any size you want (similar with standard cable sizes) but some will make any size you want but you would have to pay quite a bit for it, if you made the size become popular and sold many it could be quite worthwhile.

If a manufacturer makes an MCB size for one country (13A) you might have a better (and less expensive) option of obtaining one here.
 
Query regarding the position of the oven cooker connection outlet behind the oven, and its implications.
.
.

A few points to consider if it would make life easier:

1) You can put a plug on the oven flex if you like.

2) The socket/FCU/connection plate can be in an adjacent cupboard.

3) You can (probably) replace the supplied flex with a longer one.
 
Actually they don't "flow" at all.
Pop one electron in to a conductor and one drops out of the other end, it bumps into the next one and so on. OK it is not a flow but nearly is. You got me on that one! ;)
It is one electron pops out for each electron you pop in but it is a different electron not the same one. Hah. I failed again :oops:
 
And with AC it pops back in again after 0.01s. It's like a standing wave, really.

In a 2mm dia copper conductor with a current of 1A the electrons flow at a speed of .000023m/s
 

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