Light circuit question

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I had a search but couldn't find anything that answered my question, sorry in advance for the long post but I thought some background and what I have tested might help.

My kitchen strip light, fluorescent with a starter, was flickering and then went dim. I was working and didn't have a spare bulb or starter, and before I had time to get either, the light got steadily worse. All the other downstairs lights were working. The light was coming on immediately but was dim and after a while would start flickering.
I found an old bulb in my shed so thought I would see if it was working, but soon found out that bulb wasn't working and put the existing bulb back in.
When turning the light back on it took almost a minute before it lit, no flickering or the ends lighting up like I have seen before, just nothing until it lit, but it was still dim, then started flickering worse than before.
I then found out the light in my dining room and the light(s) in my hallway downstairs have stopped working but the living room is working, I checked they were on the same circuit by switching off the breaker when the living room light was on and it went off then back on when I switched the breaker back to on.
I used a multimeter to check the feed in the fluorescent light. Neutral to switched live is reading zero with the switch off, which I expected, and with the switch on it iss reading 02. Live to earth is reading 142.
I disconnected the wires to the light itself and the readings are still the same.
I haven't checked power to the lights that aren't working, but I am assuming they will read either zero or lower than 240.

After more research, and having a basic understanding of how the circuit is wired, it would seem the living room light is the first light in the loop, the kitchen is the second and dining room and hallway are third or fourth and there might be a loose/burnt out wire somewhere that is stopping power to the hallways and dining room lights.
If you imagine looking down at my house from above and each room is a quadrant in a square, the hallway is bottom left, the kitchen is top left, the hallway is top right and the living room is bottom right, the consumer unit is in the kitchen.

Does it make sense that the living room light would be first in the loop and the kitchen light second given the consumer unit is in the kitchen?
 
More interested line to neutral reading, clearly 142 volts line to earth is wrong, but often old installations lack an earth. There may be an earth wire, but often not connected.

The fluorescent lamp may be end of life, you can get LED replacement tubes.

With tungsten lamps a poor connection would result in a dim light, but with LED and CFL it tends to either work or not.
 
I had a search but couldn't find anything that answered my question, sorry in advance for the long post but I thought some background and what I have tested might help.

My kitchen strip light, fluorescent with a starter, was flickering and then went dim. I was working and didn't have a spare bulb or starter, and before I had time to get either, the light got steadily worse. All the other downstairs lights were working. The light was coming on immediately but was dim and after a while would start flickering.
I found an old bulb in my shed so thought I would see if it was working, but soon found out that bulb wasn't working and put the existing bulb back in.
When turning the light back on it took almost a minute before it lit, no flickering or the ends lighting up like I have seen before, just nothing until it lit, but it was still dim, then started flickering worse than before.
I then found out the light in my dining room and the light(s) in my hallway downstairs have stopped working but the living room is working, I checked they were on the same circuit by switching off the breaker when the living room light was on and it went off then back on when I switched the breaker back to on.
I used a multimeter to check the feed in the fluorescent light. Neutral to switched live is reading zero with the switch off, which I expected, and with the switch on it iss reading 02. Live to earth is reading 142.
I disconnected the wires to the light itself and the readings are still the same.
I haven't checked power to the lights that aren't working, but I am assuming they will read either zero or lower than 240.

After more research, and having a basic understanding of how the circuit is wired, it would seem the living room light is the first light in the loop, the kitchen is the second and dining room and hallway are third or fourth and there might be a loose/burnt out wire somewhere that is stopping power to the hallways and dining room lights.
If you imagine looking down at my house from above and each room is a quadrant in a square, the hallway is bottom left, the kitchen is top left, the hallway is top right and the living room is bottom right, the consumer unit is in the kitchen.

Does it make sense that the living room light would be first in the loop and the kitchen light second given the consumer unit is in the kitchen?
What connexions do you have at the kitchen light?
How have you established the order lights on the circuit?

The order would normally be governed by the easiest cable routing so it's not always instinctive.
 
More interested line to neutral reading, clearly 142 volts line to earth is wrong, but often old installations lack an earth. There may be an earth wire, but often not connected.

The fluorescent lamp may be end of life, you can get LED replacement tubes.

With tungsten lamps a poor connection would result in a dim light, but with LED and CFL it tends to either work or not.

I just checked, basically zero, it went to 002 then 001.
There is earth into the light fitting from the loop but the light doesn't have an earth to connect to, I checked the live to earth again and it is now showing zero.

What connexions do you have at the kitchen light?
How have you established the order lights on the circuit?

The order would normally be governed by the easiest cable routing so it's not always instinctive.

Picture of the connections into the light below.
If I am right about the way the circuit is set up, in a loop, and the living room light is still working, then I am assuming that is the first light in the loop and the kitchen light is the second, because initially all the lights were working, even when the kitchen light was flickering, then while the kitchen light was getting worse the dining room and hallway lights have stopped working, but the living room light is still working.
So I am thinking the order is;
1. Living room
2. Kitchen.
3. Dining or hallway
4. Dining or hallway.
With the living room light being the furthest away from the consumer board, I am guessing that is why it is number 1, but to then go to the kitchen, then either back to the dining room or hallway, doesn't make sense.

1770387944736.png
 
You have a permeant line, switched line, neutral and earth View attachment 406862 labelled here. So neutral to permeant line should be around 230 volts all the time, but neutral to switched line only 230 volts when switched on.
When I first tested neutral to switched line it read 002 with the switch on,
Permanent live to earth, which is what I was reading online said to check, showed 142, and permanent live to neutral read the same.
However, now everything is reading either 000 or 002, it is varying between them on each test.
I have disconnected the wires that are part of the light fitting just in case that was causing the readings, but it didn't make a difference.
 
Clearly lost permeant line, I have found where the wire was not in a terminal, but just resting there, I would in the ceiling roses, just give the line wire a little tug, to make sure actually in the terminals of the ceiling rose.
 
All the wires into that light seem secure, so I will check the wiring to the rest of the lights and see if anything is loose.
Thank you for your help.
 
In your photo, I can't see an earth connection to the metal chassis of the light fitting.
 

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