Window Sill and Frame Rot Repair/Bodge - Best Options?

[RealPolitik]

Have a softwood window which has rotted away at the back of the sill, and on the lower inch or so of two uprights - I would like to get it patched up so it will look presentable for a year or so until all the house windows are replaced. How would you approach this - chisel it flat and screw a batten across, filling the uprights and any gaps? Or would two-part epoxy work? A uPVC sill won’t work as the lost wood was largely the raised strip behind the actual sill.

Is it too far gone for a joiner to want to take on? Any advice welcome!

 

[Diver Fred]

To far gone!

Bodge, then.
When the rain stops and the timber drys out brush the loose rotten wood away. Use copious amounts of wood hardener on the bare timber. Buy a length of architrave or pencil topped skirting Cut that to fit between the walls. Chop out the rotten timber on the uprights level with the glass. Heavy bead of (glazing) silicon sealer on the flat side of the skirting, press that against the glass and the uprights of the window frame with the bottom close or touching the cill. The silicon should squeeze out the top edge of the skirting, clean that up to leave a small bead finish. Finish the bottom edge with a bead of silicon between skirting and cill.

 

[RealPolitik]

Thanks, that makes sense. I was considering new wood into the uprights and filling, but I think that’s going to be too involved given the state of it.

 

[robinbanks]

Aye carumba. Single pane glazing too. Why wait? Replace this window now and the others next year

 

[RealPolitik]

Mainly because it will likely be sold afterwards, so I’d like the certificate, and fitting costs are prohibitive for a single window.

 

[HERTS P&D]

That needs replacing.

Andy

 

[robinbanks]

Buy a big tub of car body filler, fill it and smooth it out with a spatula, paint it and leave it til replacement time. It's all going in a skip soon and you're just after a some aesthetic improvement so don't go too crazy with it..

 

[mrrusty]

Filler, filler, filler!!! If it was mine, I'd be thinking about running up a new base rail on the router table and piecing in some new wood. How long does that take? Could certainly make that window last a good few years more. Ask a few local joiners. Having said that though, uPVC windows are so cheap, there wouldn't be much in it to just stick a new window in... quick look "houseofwindows" 1800 x 1000 = £304 inc of glazing with free delivery! (never used them - first one that came up)

 

[big-all]

window board capping tight to the glass silicone in and to the glass and filled in cosmetically

upvc window board capping at DuckDuckGo

DuckDuckGo. Privacy, Simplified.

duckduckgo.com

 

[robinbanks]

last a good few years more

Note, OP doesn't want longevity, literally just a tart job

just stick a new window in

Note, OP wants the fensa cert(for subsequent sale) when it's replaced as part of a bigger job next year

I mean, I get it, but equally it's that crazy "I'll put up with <insert negative aspect here> myself now, but then later renovate/replace/repair <aspect> for the next owner to enjoy, to help the sell in 12 months' time" thing :/

I get it if one doesn't have the money now, and is unwilling to borrow it, just kinda sucks to not enjoy the benefit oneself

 

[mrrusty]

Note, OP wants the fensa cert(for subsequent sale)

The house will still sell with or without a certificate. It's what indemnity policies are for. In any case, if all the rest of the windows are replaced later and have a fensa certificate, no-one will bother about this one that was done at a different time.

 

[RealPolitik]

It’s a rental, and it hasn’t been fixed in time for the next tenancy because I’ve been messed around by both joiner and uPVC people, whilst having other stuff going on. The other replaceable windows are largely in good condition (but given low uPVC cost and high fixed fitting charges, they might as well get done to help sale).