Wiring in a 1 gang 2 way Wifi switch no neutral

[HoMoaner34]

Hi,
My living room has two 1 gang switches on either side, which power the main ceiling light which is a 48w LED affair.
I'm looking to replace the switches with two 1 gang WiFi switches which work 2 way.
Current wiring is as follows:

Master switch:
Comm: Single brown wire with constant 230V supply
'One Way' terminal: 3 wires, 2 brown, one black with brown sheath. I assume these would be switched live to light, a strapper and I'm not sure, another live going to another light? (the room only has one light)
'Two way' terminal: 2 wires. One brown and one sheathed brown black wire
3 neutrals terminated together in the 'loop' terminal

Second switch has 3 wires in total and no neutrals at all.

I purchased 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/BSEED-Sensor-Neutral-Compatible-Switches/dp/B0G6Z22KF7?th=1

Specifically the '1 gang, no neutral, 2 way' model.
Can anyone advise please? I've replaced several switches safely but when it comes to these no neutral Wifi switches I'm a bit confused

 

[pete01]

Do it as it tells you to..

Post pictures of your actual wiring if you're unsure

 

[ericmark]

Each make can have their own method

The Energenie MIHO43 instructions here the TP-Link (Tapo) use a wireless button for second switch, which there is a version with a square cover surround, S200D has the cover S200B without cover

most battery operated devices need a hub, direct to a router uses too much power. The capacitor across the light increases the load to ensure enough current to work switch, and also stops the lights flashing when off.

The Energenie has minium wattage of 5 watts, and the Tapo uses a battery so no minium wattage, I am moving from Energenie to Tapo, as had some problems after some 5 years with them acting like a flasher unit, of the 5 fitted, now some 8 years latter down to 2, had a Tapo socket adaptor fail but as yet touch wood, no Tapo light switches have failed. At moment 4 fitted. Hub doubles as a door bell.

 

[HoMoaner34]

Switch 1:

Switch 2:

 

[ericmark]

Two of the three switches it seems to have a neutral, but need as said to follow what the manufacturer says, each make is different, there is no one diagram fits all.

 

[HoMoaner34]

Two of the three switches it seems to have a neutral, but need as said to follow what the manufacturer says, each make is different, there is no one diagram fits all.

Sorry there are only 2 switches, I just took 2 photos of switch 1. Deleted one of them now for clarity

 

[pete01]

Permanent live
switch live
neutral

You should be able to re-purpose the 3 core to the 2nd switch?

 

[pete01]

If you do try it make sure you turn the power off obviously...

It looks like you need to fit the yellow adaptor at the light?

Also mark the wires so you can get it back how it is now incase you need to.

 

[ericmark]

The yellow adaptor is a capacitor which will pass AC current, so it is basic a load on the switch even with bulbs removed, which is wasting energy if not required. I found with G9 bulbs I needed the load capacitor, with GU10 most would work without it, and E28 and BA22d never needed to fit one. But bulbs should be suitable for dimming which means they have the load resistor built in to stop flashing when off, the Tapo switch due to using a battery, does not need a neutral or any capacitors. And will work with any bulb type.

 

[HoMoaner34]

Not having any luck, cant get either to power on at all. Can anyone explain exactly where each wire is supposed to go?