Brass to copper solder?

[Albumen]

It shouldn't, 3 bar is more than enough to blast the hair off of anyone's head as long as the pressure is maintained when run. I.E. it has a well sustained dynamic pressure.

When I measured it that was "static" pressure, by the way.

 

[denso13]

did you pre tin it, as recommended here? Just that I don't have any "loose" solder, all my fittings are pre soldered.

Not required really, you might have trouble then getting them to go into the fittings.

It's a common thing with air vents and drain cocks, no tinning required.

 

[Albumen]

Not required really, you might have trouble then getting them to go into the fittings.

It's a common thing with air vents and drain cocks, no tinning required.

Thanks. I can do this away from the job, so can concentrate on applying heat evenly, careful prep, flux application and so on. Though I will be soldering a nearby elbow at the same time. I'm reasonably confident of my soldering (for an amateur!). The only soldered joint that's ever failed was one where there was still a tiny bit of water in the pipe. And it was clear, even while I was doing it, that it hadn't really "taken".

Anyway, I've got a brand new bottle of gas to go through, it turns out if you leave a bottle in the attic for 13 years it's empty when you try to use it - who'd have though it!

 

[denso13]

I'm reasonably confident of my soldering (for an amateur!)

Don't overheat it, that is the biggest mistake.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

When I measured it that was "static" pressure, by the way.

Static pressure will always be higher, and it is the static pressure which will test pipework and fittings. Best, if possible, to make any pressure reducer accessible, for future adjustment, and repairs.