What Do You Make Of This?

Supply should have an overload, and all a cooker which can use more that the overload will do, is to trip an overload. My cooker is on a 32 amp 30 mA RCBO but can use nearly 60 amps with everything switched on. Nothing wrong with that.

I can see that the likes of Curry's like any other retailer may subcontract the work of fitting appliances, so they may not have full control of what installers do, but to slate off Curry's and at the same time show you’re not that good yourself does seem pot calling kettle black.

This
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would to me cause some head scratching, it clearly was shorting against the neutral, but why? Seems likely a loose connection? Not wrong cable size or type, even when it is wrong cable type, twin and earth is for installation not an appliance which can be regular moved for cleaning, but we all know, cookers are not moved enough times to cause a problem.

I will guess that the single phase/split phase links were not torqued up, I have seen it many times, a consumer unit has had the MCBs clipped in place by the wholesale outlet as a convenient way to hand it over the counter to the electrician, who following the instructions should check the torque of all connections, but there is a limit to how far one looks into a product to test and inspect on commissioning, and it is easy to not check something one has not connected.

It is more likely with skilled then semi-skilled to not do the commissioning checks, installing a cooker is not rocket science, and skilled people get bored, but way back, likely the 80s, for a week or two between proper jobs, I went out in a van installing cookers etc.

I was working with a Corgi guy as it was then, I was the mate with gas, and he was the mate with electric. He was issued all the gas kit, but I was given nothing, no loop impedance test, no insulation tester, not even a pad of minor works certificates, since always worked cards in, I had never needed my own test gear, in fact most jobs it was strictly forbidden for me to use my own, the firm was responsible for calibration and keeping records, so I found a proper job ASAP and quit the cowboy firm, but we were installing cookers from the likes of Curry's, but we were employed by a subcontractor.

Removing greasy old cookers was not my idea of fun, so getting a fully qualified electrician to do that job day in day out, seems unlikely.
 
Not great if the links are getting too hot, they either aren’t up for the Job or a fault

The link shouldn’t be carrying the full current anyway
 
He mentioned 6mm2 and i got the impression that was also a problem but as far as I knew that is what you need for an electric oven.
 
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Has the guy no idea that the cable is well protected by the 32A breaker?

And of course, that with diversity, a sizeable oven can be had, with or without a 13A socket?
 
Has the guy no idea that the cable is well protected by the 32A breaker?

And of course, that with diversity, a sizeable oven can be had, with or without a 13A socket?
I dont think he does have a clue, I've watched a few of his videos....but im not sure if he does it to wind people up or he just doesn't know much.
 
He mentioned 6mm2 and i got the impression that was also a problem but as far as I knew that is what you need for an electric oven.
It is what's commonly used, you can have upto 15KW of cooking appliances on a 32 amp mcb with diversity....some say 20KW
 
I dont think he does have a clue, I've watched a few of his videos....but im not sure if he does it to wind people up or he just doesn't know much.
If I was a professional working electrician putting my name to a video, I'd make sure it was top notch.

If he's doing it to wind people up, he's just making himself look ill-educated in the regs.
 

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