Enamel for alloy wheel?

Or, just use dental floss as a garotte.
If it's confirmed to work, why not? I didn't have any at the time. Since I was forcing it, I suffered tunnel vision and kept going. I already resigned to the possibility of paying £20 odd for a new china one. But, everything is clearer on hindsight.
 
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Here's the concluding reading at 4-week/1-month mark. My earlier projections prove to be good. The play wheel sat in the garage while the regular wheels subjected to some driving. Even the leaky worst wheel is not completely disastrous. It was the last to be inflated and it was over inflated. So, the plan now is to top up monthly with the leaker given an extra 0.2 bar.

Unless for new or newly refurbished wheels, best leak performance can only be achieved through DIY. Use of bead sealant on corrosion bubbles by shops is at best hit and miss. Those bubbles in the bead seat have to be popped, flattened, and re-flushed to attain a good seal. I believe re-flushing using bead sealant will be fine. Going by the old sealant on the play wheel, I believe the sealant has longer life and better corrosion resistance than paint.

2026-08-04 18:59
play 2.4
reg1 2.375
reg2 2.2

2026-07-21 11:18
play 2.4
reg1 2.3
reg2 2.35

2026-07-12 16:27
play 2.48
reg1 2.45
reg2 2.575


2026-07-10 18:24
play 2.5
reg1 2.5
reg2 2.6

2026-07-08 20:05
play 2.5 bar
reg1 2.5 bar
reg2 2.625 bar
 
I just came to the realization that the mich inflator produced higher pressure when read by the china gauges was by design. Air heats up when compressed. The mich was compensating for that. This is why, once cooled down, the pressure in the play wheel stayed static and at the intended level.

Here's an additional thought in dealing with tyres and old wheels. Even if it's impractical to do DIY tyre mounting because of potential paint damages, there remains an option to dismount an old tyre by physically cutting it apart. Then the bead seat could be prepared/repaired before giving the wheel to the shop for mounting. This will reduce chance of leaking on old wheels with corrosion. Most small shops will be happy with this kind of arrangement.
 
Final reading at ~2 month mark. DIY wins. Next is to attempt a bead breaker from scrap. It's an essential tool for dealing with shop monkey business.

2026-09-05 11:30
play 2.3
reg1 2.2
reg2 1.5
 
Tyre crushed. Not possible to succeed unless willing to crush. The wood beams were just adequate at 37mm x 62mm cross section. The Lead screw was M14 from the broken twin of the scissor jack shown. The other bead was slightly more challenging owing to the previous use of bead sealer. The sealer turned into glue and could not be broken by hand. The glue was easily broken by the bead breaker but had to be done around the whole rim.

crush.jpg



Here's the failed V1 bead breaker to illustrate the structure and ease of fabrication. The design was sound but all of the materials used were too flimsy for the task.

failed-v1.jpg
 
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Just drive the bloody car wheel up onto a deflated wheel that is laying flat on the ground, just missing the rim if you want to break the tyre bead. No extra tools needed.
 
Just drive the bloody car wheel up onto a deflated wheel that is laying flat on the ground, just missing the rim if you want to break the tyre bead. No extra tools needed.
I didn't think you cared. Isn't it better to go to shop? No need to drive up anything.
 
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