Voltage test seems okay but no power?

[pete01]

So you think the switch is wired incorrectly - that's the reason the light(s) is not coming on?

I do.

What about the voltage meter showing all lights at the outside wires?

There might be a live there but no neutral.

 

[AFT4B]

Okay, that seems like as good an explanation as any given the 4 neutrals are not all connected together. Should I just wagoing them all together and see if that makes the difference first?

 

[ETAF]

i'm sure pete01 will reply , BUT just because a wire is blue does NOT mean its a neutral

 

[AFT4B]

i'm sure pete01 will reply , BUT just because a wire is blue does NOT mean its a neutral

This is a new set of wiring - surely all the browns are live, all the blues are neutrals and all the yellow/ green are earth? What else could it be? (you're talking to an electrics layman!)

 

[CountryFan]

Imo, top right L1 seems to be screwed down on insulation. Ideally, you need a better tester - your existing one will show whether the wire is live. It doesn’t give a reading.

 

[flameport]

Should I just wagoing them all together and see if that makes the difference first?

Do it.

Those voltage pen efforts will show live present, but they won't provide any indication of the neutral is not connected. However no neutral will certainly prevent anything from working.

While it's true that some wiring designs may use blue for purposes other than neutral, that isn't the case here.

 

[pete01]

Should I just wagoing them all together

I would.

 

[AFT4B]

Do it.

Those voltage pen efforts will show live present, but they won't provide any indication of the neutral is not connected. However no neutral will certainly prevent anything from working.

While it's true that some wiring designs may use blue for purposes other than neutral, that isn't the case here.

I'll give that a go.

Shouldn't the live also be bridged?

 

[pete01]

Yes, then you can rotate the browns until it works as it should.

 

[AFT4B]

Thanks pete01 and all! I'll give that a go tomorrow.

 

[Murdochcat]

I normally just switch off the main breaker at the fuse board.

I'll get a photo of the wiring to the switch. I also noticed three sets of wires going to the light pendent in the room where the light switch for the external lights is. Assuming they're all on the same circuit - pendent in the room works fine.


View attachment 422458

I know these aren't particularly reliable but mine has about 5 lights and ALL light up. If the voltage is weak or it's picking up from somewhere else then 1 or 2 tend to light up.

Hum, that’s not a great way to test for correct wiring.

Did the “spark” fit the switch , make the connections including the Wagos ?

 

[ericmark]

I look at 4 x twin and earth and think two feed in, and two feed out, so maybe outside feed in is not connected in the consumer unit, and capacitive and inductive linking are enough to light tester.

I would not link either lines or neutrals as it could cause a borrowed neutral situation. And it could mean two circuit overloads feed both circuits. And if you have RCBOs it will cause them to trip.

 

[mikehammer69]

Ya looking at the picture my inclination wouldn't be to link them . They look separate .

Whatever's going on with the non-contact indication

 

[AFT4B]

Hum, that’s not a great way to test for correct wiring.

Did the “spark” fit the switch , make the connections including the Wagos ?

Yes, the sparky fitted the switch and wagos.

What is a better way? I'm a pretty competent DIYer but never really tackled anything more than replacing a socket/ light so trying to work safe.

 

[pete01]

Depends if the OP connected the switch or the electrician.