The usual shed installation question

Do I need to terminate the armour or can I just leave that as mechanical protection and stay with the 3rd core as my earth?

yes it needs to be an EARTHED metallic sheath..

And one I forgot...

It needs to be EARTHED METALLIC SHEATH but with me using a metal clad CU and metal switched fuse must i also use the earthing rings provided with the glands or are these for when the glands are used in plastic equipment which I've seen before?

I have fitted them anyway and am hoping I can get away with a 6mm earth to them as I've run out of 10mm spaces in the earth block within the switched fuse.
 
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Not normal to wire the light in 2.5, what's the thinking behind that?

Would have thought the usual 1.5 or even 1mm on a 6a mcb would be better.
 
You'll need to check the 6mm with the adiabatic to make sure it is OK, however as it is doubled with a core it should pass.
The earthing rings (banjo) need to be used, they are more suited to use with a metal enclosure - imo poor with plastic. With plastic I'd opt to sandwich the banjo between two locknuts or use a piranah type nut.
//www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:swa-gland

You can keep the main switch but will mean you have to use RCBOs for anything within the location of the shower basin.

Just double check with the shower MI, I think 50A should be fine providing the cable etc is capable of handling it. Use 240v to work it out as the showers are often rated 8.5kw @ 240v.

I'd be tempted to use something like trunking, looks better and protects the cable. In the shower area, is there access to a panel etc which the shower sits on so the cable can sit behind?
 
Thinking is it saves buying a roll of 1 or 1.5mm as I've got a roll of 2.5.

I know they are only a couple of quid but as the supermarket says every little helps.

I'm having to twist his arm abit to buy some IP rated stuff as he's just had to shell out for a doggie table and doggie hairdryer (in the £1000's) and he is very reluctant to spend now.
 
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Use the right size cables, makes your life easier instead of messing around trying to get a too bigger cable into a light switch etc.
If he can afford a few £1000s on doggy hair drier then surely he can afford to spend a few £s on having it installed properly! Does he also drive a Bentley? :LOL:
 
You can keep the main switch but will mean you have to use RCBOs for anything within the location of the shower basin.

Thanks, I opted for an RCD with mcb's over RCBO's only to try and keep the cost down I personally would have preferred to fit RCBO's.

What I really meant with the switch was do I HAVE to use both the switch and the RCD or is it acceptable to abandon the switch and only use the RCD?
Just thought there may have been something in the regs or similar that I didn't know about?


I'd be tempted to use something like trunking, looks better and protects the cable. In the shower area, is there access to a panel etc which the shower sits on so the cable can sit behind?

I'm with you, I'd much prefer to fit some trunking but if I can't twist his arm to his pocket will clipped direct be acceptable?

The shed seems very thin IMO and I've had to fit a meter board (from a helpful DNO) ;) to mount the CU securely.
Think I'll be doing similar with the shower in which case I'll have a recess behind to either clip too or fit some trunking on the back of the board before mounting it to the shed, tho I am concerned about the wood getting wet so may have to find another way.

Use the right size cables, makes your life easier instead of messing around trying to get a too bigger cable into a light switch etc.

Thanks I know I should but it's purely on cost, I'll be fine with 2.5 in the switch I've bought and should be ok with the lamp as I believe the ones he's looking at (outside lamp IP44 rated) are going to be one of them choc block jobbies.
 
What I really meant with the switch was do I HAVE to use both the switch and the RCD or is it acceptable to abandon the switch and only use the RCD?
Just thought there may have been something in the regs or similar that I didn't know about?
You can use a Double Pole RCD as the means of isolations for the outbuilding - pay attention to section 314 of the regs re a fault on the sockets / shower taking out the lighting circuit tho.


I'm with you, I'd much prefer to fit some trunking but if I can't twist his arm to his pocket will clipped direct be acceptable?
What is the likelyhood of the cables being damaged if they are not? For the sake of a few £s and doing the job properly is worth it in the long run.
Thanks I know I should but it's purely on cost, I'll be fine with 2.5 in the switch I've bought and should be ok with the lamp as I believe the ones he's looking at (outside lamp IP44 rated) are going to be one of them choc block jobbies.
Urghh!! You might find you have fun and games trying to get 2.5 into luminaires! 1mm T&E, £10.25 for 25m in Screwfix.
 
Was looking at a crabtree but I've been having to tighten a lot of their isolators up lately which have been fitted by a housing asso around here and all their sparks can't be weak wristed.

And should I be using RCBO's instead of the seperate RCD?

Was it Weaver Vale housing trust by chance ? And where the cable entrys to the enclosure filled with white silcone.
Also was there a sticker on the unit from a big firm in the area ?

Just curious :)
 
You can use a Double Pole RCD as the means of isolations for the outbuilding - pay attention to section 314 of the regs re a fault on the sockets / shower taking out the lighting circuit tho.

Yup thought about the lights on the RCD bit but decided I will be fitting everything on the RCD with a shower being in there.

With regards to not being able to see if anything happened....
He's got the usual halogen pir on the house which shines nicely through the window of his shed (Don't really know why he wants a lighting circuit thinking about it) this would nicely light up his shed CU so he could reset.
What is the likelyhood of the cables being damaged if they are not? For the sake of a few £s and doing the job properly is worth it in the long run.

Think your right, although I would be able to clip them safely out of the way I hate it when I see cable clipped somewhere.
Plus as I said before with there being animals and sharp scissors etc I'd prefer to have the extra protection.

I'll buy some for him tommorow and he can buy me a Guinness or something.

Thanks for your help Spark123 and everybody else thats helped me.

I know there must be some people reading this that are saying to them selves "if he's asking that he shouldn't be doing it" but I am capable and believe myself very competent in what I will be doing, it's the regs I am not familiar with as I work by the SUPPLY regs which seem to be very different.
I mean who'd have thought you'd need to use armoured cable ;)

Also this will be checked and issued paperwork ONLY if all is correct by a competent practising spark of many years who doesn't live in the area and hasn't the time to come and do the work due to his own work commitments.
 
Was looking at a crabtree but I've been having to tighten a lot of their isolators up lately which have been fitted by a housing asso around here and all their sparks can't be weak wristed.

And should I be using RCBO's instead of the seperate RCD?

Was it Weaver Vale housing trust by chance ? And where the cable entrys to the enclosure filled with white silcone.
Also was there a sticker on the unit from a big firm in the area ?

Just curious :)

LOL :LOL:
Yup can't think of the sticker your on about tho?

Mostly around Rudheath they seem to be really loose as in sneeze and they fall out.
:LOL:
 
If you don't need 20 then screwfix isn't going to help! Your local wholesaler might be a safer bet.
£2 to £3 ish for a 3m length of 18x25mm, or slightly more for stickybacked (put screws in as well tho).
 

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