How to finish floating floor around stairwell etc

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I have finished laying my engineered oak floor but i dont know the best way of finishing around the openings for the stairwell etc. I realise that a skirting board will hide the expansion gap around the wall etc but i cant see what i'm meant to do for drops. I currently do not have any balustrades in place but i am intending to put frameless glass ones in, this will allow any finish to be seen through the glass on the edge of the flooring but obviously an expansion area must be allowed for the floor.

I've attached a photo which should make things a little more obvious... (except i cant work out how to rotate the image. Sorry)


Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

DP

 
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Well unless I have this wrong there doesn't really appear to be any gap along the length part of the floor.

Fortunately expansion tends to be more of any issue on lengths rather than widths.

I'd suggest a wooden hockey stick type moulding which you can oil, dye or stain to match the floor. I'd use a fine drill bit and pre drill for taking panel pins as the fixing then if any expansion does happen on the width it will simply push the moulding.

Sort of thing I suggest is http://www.diy.com/nav/build/timber...ding-FB271-Pine-L-2400-x-W-26-x-T-8mm-9274937

Where is the glass balustrade going to be fixed? If its on and through the floor covering you would be undoing any good work regarding expansion, because at the fixing points you will have created a rigid zone where expansion is prevented due to balustrade fixing.
 
If you do actually go for a frameless glass system (you know this is gonna be phenomenally expensive?) then there are systems that have a channel that the glass sits in at the bottom and this could sit flush or just proud with the floor and all you have to do is fill the gap.

Alternatively if you went for a glass system that is fixed into the floor trimmers with patch fixings you could fit a hardwood (or any kind of wood) fascia just proud of your floor and then fix through this fascia into the trimmers.

Really this should have all been taken into consideration a few stages back.[/wiki]
 
Be sure to cut the right end of the planking. The grooved pieces that snap together go 1 way. Laying the piece on the ground first and then marking it with a pencil will ensure you cut the correct end.
 
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Thanks for the responses so far.
Freddie, are you suggesting something like the image attached?



That seems like a sensible solution with the channel covering the expansion gap.

thanks

DP
 
Fortunately expansion tends to be more of any issue on lengths rather than widths.
I'm afraid it is definitely the other way round: wood works more in the width than in the length.
 
I didn't include an important detail (apologies), the wall has a 25mm cavity behind it, as shown in "balustrade1". Because of this im really struggling to work out a way of fixing the channel (or round fittings like these http://www.spiralhardware.co.uk/product_viewer.php?prodid=217 ) which will be secure enough. I think anything fixed from above will look odd because it will need to be too far back onto the landing area.

The only method i can think of to allow the floor to expand and give enough rigidity in the fixing is shown in "balustrade2" using a L-shaped piece of oak to cover the edge and screw fixing it to the plasterboard and battens then using chemical anchors (or similar) through the round fittings into the breeze block wall. The only issue (i can think of) with this is the pre-drilled holes in the fixing are m6 and finding anything long enough for this is proving difficult.


Any suggestions welcomed.

Many thanks

DP

 

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