I have fitted a solid oak floor in my hallway and am putting scotia all the way round but there is a tight curve in the hallway opposite the bullnose how do I finish this area off to hide the expansion gap.
Finishing round a curve
- Thread starter soggybiscuit
- Start date
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Sorry, I dont have an answer, and I don't wish to hijack your thread, but I have a similar query over trim for laminate flooring in the bathroom - we have a curved shower tray, but any trim I have seen won't bend to that radius. Anyone know answers to this and to OP's question?
Kahrs have a flexi-edge that is made to go around tight curves that might help.
If you already have the wood scotia you can cut a number of grooves (saw blade width) in the back (a third or half the depth of scotia) to make it bend more or try steaming.
For the bathroom can you not fin plastic beading to match the shower tray that will be flexible enough.
If you already have the wood scotia you can cut a number of grooves (saw blade width) in the back (a third or half the depth of scotia) to make it bend more or try steaming.
For the bathroom can you not fin plastic beading to match the shower tray that will be flexible enough.
With curved areas try undercutting and sliding laminate or wooden flooring underneath otherwise leave mdf beading soaking in water overnight this will make it flexible enough to go round corners.
As a side note most laminates do not work well in bathrooms though if it is just the shower tray that is the problem cut it neat to the tray and leave the gap at all other areas in the room.
As a side note most laminates do not work well in bathrooms though if it is just the shower tray that is the problem cut it neat to the tray and leave the gap at all other areas in the room.
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if you leave MDF beading in water over night, well dont it double its size?
It will swell slightly but it doesn't make that much of a difference when it dry's back out in the shape that you are after. leaving beading standing upright for a few days will also put a curve on the beading.
Usually the best solution is to undercut as said above. fein or bosch both do great tools for this.
I fitted the skirting over mine so that hid all but the bottom of the stairs where the last tread had a bull nose. Not sure if it will help in your case but I used a piece of white UPVC beading & bent the end around a 5 litre paint tin to form the radius; keep immersing it in boiling water to make it pliable & you can only bend it a bit at a time, holding the radius while it cools down. Takes time & you need to persevere but it works well & looks the part.
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