We have an old house, 1900's. It has an old style fuse box, 2 of them, kind of 2 pin plugs that plug into it with a wire going through the middle. Yesterday, went to turn the upstairs light on and nothing. We then found that ALL the upstairs lights have gone plus 2 downstairs, sockets all still work luckily so we have lamps. None of the wires have snapped, some you can see have in the past but all currently in tact. Obviously tried turning on and off, any idea's? We are complete novices so no fancy electrical talk!
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With the old Wilex fuses you have it is easy to strain the fuse wire when tightening it up, so it looks good in centre but has failed at the end.
If following the rules, because the maximum fuse for a ceiling rose is 5 amp, even though you are allowed 16 amp for lighting in general, it is normally 5 amps for lights. You show looking at a 15 amp fuse (blue) not a 5 amp (white) so have you looked at the right fuse.
Today we are not allowed rewireable fuses where it is in control of an ordinary person, this means not so easy to buy fuse wire on the cards like in the past, it tends to be sold on a reel where you can get it so it's a real pain.
That fuse box has had 3 upgrades, first they introduced a cartridge fuse, then a trip with button, and then trip with switch, they are easy to fit, however the circuits should be tested before the up-grade.
So turning off the main isolator because behind the base there are live buzz bars you can fit one of these
[/img]as I have said really should be tested first so I would only renew the faulty one to start with there is also the 16 amp version however today the fuse box is no longer used, we use a type tested distribution unit called a consumer unit, these now have extra safety features called the RCD, to replace all the fuses with MCB would cost you over £120 which would go a long way towards fitting a new consumer unit. Renewing one at £10.06 where you have the problem may be a way around lack of fuse wire, keep you going until you can get an electrician, but I would not swap the lot as they will be scrap when consumer unit changed.
No children and no DIY and likely you can get away for years without RCD protection, but the day you buy a masonry drill is the day to consider getting a new consumer unit fitted.
If following the rules, because the maximum fuse for a ceiling rose is 5 amp, even though you are allowed 16 amp for lighting in general, it is normally 5 amps for lights. You show looking at a 15 amp fuse (blue) not a 5 amp (white) so have you looked at the right fuse.
Today we are not allowed rewireable fuses where it is in control of an ordinary person, this means not so easy to buy fuse wire on the cards like in the past, it tends to be sold on a reel where you can get it so it's a real pain.
That fuse box has had 3 upgrades, first they introduced a cartridge fuse, then a trip with button, and then trip with switch, they are easy to fit, however the circuits should be tested before the up-grade.
So turning off the main isolator because behind the base there are live buzz bars you can fit one of these
No children and no DIY and likely you can get away for years without RCD protection, but the day you buy a masonry drill is the day to consider getting a new consumer unit fitted.
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All upstairs and 2 individual downstairs lights sounds like one circuit. So one of the fuses is the likely problem.
If you don't know which is which, a bit of trial and error (removing one at a time and seeing which circuit stops working) will identify the one that is faulty as this will have no further effect, when removed.
Switch off the main switch at each removal/replacement.
As said, the fuse wire may "look OK" in the centre, but can be broken. They can be tested with a multimeter, but its so easy to replace the fuse wire.
As to this rubbish about not being able to obtain fuse wire!!!!!!!---ask your dad, grandad or any householder who looks as though they have a bus pass or try a local market hardware stall.
If you don't know which is which, a bit of trial and error (removing one at a time and seeing which circuit stops working) will identify the one that is faulty as this will have no further effect, when removed.
Switch off the main switch at each removal/replacement.
As said, the fuse wire may "look OK" in the centre, but can be broken. They can be tested with a multimeter, but its so easy to replace the fuse wire.
As to this rubbish about not being able to obtain fuse wire!!!!!!!---ask your dad, grandad or any householder who looks as though they have a bus pass or try a local market hardware stall.
OMG.
A DIY forum that considers changing a fuse wire beyond the fast learning abilities for someone who can use the internet.
From what I read, I don't think that is the case.
OP states he has replaced the fuse wire before but this time none has blown.
Therefore it will require some inspection so Jackrae's advice is correct.
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BS EN 60439-3
There is nothing to say existing systems must be upgraded as with most regulations, but today we could not fit a consumer unit with re-wireable fuses where under the control of an ordinary person. We can still use fuses, cartridge fuses are still permitted.
I think it is to remove the problem where some one gets 5 amp and 15 amp fuse wire mixed up, there is of course nothing on the fuse wire only the card which the fuse wire is on, and writing does fade in time.
I still remember the days of fuse wire, and specially with 5 amp wire it was easy to damage the wire while tightening up the screws, looking at the wire in the holder it seems intact, but it has broken at the end rather than centre.
533 ?
Do you still have the fusebox covers, inside is usually written what the circuits are.
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