new water mains to new extension

M

martysmarty

Joined
5 Jan 2016
Messages
233
Reaction score
8
Country
United Kingdom
hi guys

as title says, we are in the process of having a kitchen extension built. plans are currently at the council stage, plans have been drawn up by architects and we are looking to knock down the existing extension next.

one problem we are going to face is the water supply. the stop cock is currently positioned on the rear wall of the house that is going to be removed. i have been told it is possible to chase out the lead pipe, cut it back as far as possible and joint mdpe 25mm onto it. this would be our cheap option if we can. we have a shared drive with next door and i think it runs from the street down our drive, to the rear of our house. on the street there is a shutoff valve to several houses. not just ours.

severn trent offer a lead pipe replacment sceheme but as i say this could be tricky because of shared run.

whats your guys thoughts?
 
Sponsored Links
martysmarty said:
we are in the process of having a kitchen extension built.
Click to expand...
Seems we are doing exactly what you are proposing on yours.

We knew we would hit the water pipe at some pint during excavations, so we made sure (as we always do) that the road stop cock was working. We 'found' the water pipe unexpectedly when digging the first trench and were able to trace it back to an incoming position just outside the footprint of our new extension and at an optimum position to work on.

We cut the pipe and put a tee junction on it with one of the tees going back to the original supply inlet and the other we fitted 20mm blue plastic into our new extension. We fitted our own hose tap on the new blue.

Ultimately the new blue will become her new stop tap position and the old tee'd off supply will be blanked off.
Water1

Water1

Water2

Water2

Water3

Water3


We also re-hashed both her 40mm wastes and temporarily routed them into the new drain position so that she has no interruption to washing etc.
 
Last edited:
Yes we are doing same. You however are much more in front. We put in the plans 2 weeks ago and payed a fee for enlargment of home. We will be tsking down the old building as soon as we get the all clear. Hopefully next couple weeks.

So you opted to join onto it then. How come you went for 20mm pipe rather than 25? I know if they swap out the whole thing they usually go 25mm.

This just personal choice? Better fitment?

Thanks for your reply!
 
Sponsored Links
cheers buddy, I will likely be posting back in this thread at a later date when excavating out for the pipe just for advice once
I get at it.

one thing I would like to ask actually, can the new mains run go straight into the boiler? with a stopcock before the incoming to the boiler? rather than under a sink? the boiler is on the same side of the house that the mains is likely to run, sink is on opposite side of house. we are going to lay sink supply under floor in ducting.

would make sense to go Mains>outside isolation>stopcock under boiler>sink, Rather than Mains>outside isolation>stopcock under sink> back from sink to boiler.
 
Personally I would (and have) a new supply. Lead pipes are rubbish, shared pipes are even more so unless you have fantastic water pressure (and even then it potentially only takes one of your neighbours to upgrade an old open vented cylinder/cold water storage tank system to a combi to cause you problems).
 
Definately REPLACE.

Lead pipe I understand is regarded as a health hazzard.

Shared supplies whilst stopping water meters from being fitted will only cause issues if there is an edict that such must be installed.
 
If a Lead replacement is offered, take it. It'll be a superior option, unlikely to leak in your lifetime, gives you control over your own supply, no loss of pressure if neighbour's are using water, and ultimately safer as any possibility of lead leaching into the water is removed. Original supply can then be capped, ideally where it tees off the shared supply.

New supply can run into the building wherever you like, provided it meets the regulations, and is fitted with a stoptap at point of entry, there is no fixed requirement to where it feeds first, as long as the kitchen tap as a minimum, is supplied from the main to ensure safe drinking water.

Any 'dead legs' in the old supply pipework should be removed as far as is practical.
 
So, i will give them a call. I think its free hookup but obviously i have to cover the costs on my boundry. I saw a few posts regards to regs for it, so my next quesyion would be can i do the donkey work? It does say to use their list of plumbers on the website but i am asuming thats an advisory? If all were done to regs i cant see them saying otherwise?

It does sound the best option just hope it can be done with minimal upset to next door.
 
When I did one, I had the option of using one of their approved plumbing companies, but I can handle a spade and a pipe. They inspected the trench f.o.c. to confirm it was at the correct depth before backfilling.

Connection to the main is meant to be done by the water co, so leave your pit open, with enough spare pipe to reach with ease. If you put a stopcock in the pit you can trim your pipes afterwards if necessary.

If you use a larger diameter pipe, flow will be improved, even if the connection at the main or meter is smaller.

Say you run it in 25mm or 32mm, you can have your own full-bore stopcock and tee-off in 22mm copper to the cylinder or boiler or tank and cold water supplies. Then if/when you have an unvented cylinder or a combi you can have great flow and none of that annoying loss of pressure when someone turns on a tap in the house.
 
Yes, you should be free to self lay to the boundary, and let the Water Company connect up. They'll want to inspect it's done to regs though beforehand, so pipe needs to be laid 760mm deep, bed and cover it it with sand for protection, allow a bit of snaking to compensate for ground movement, and cap the boundary end to prevent any detritus getting down the pipe. Initial layer of backfill wants to be free of stones, large lumps etc.

Make sure suitable frost protection is used where it enters the property, and fit a stoptap as soon as practical after entering the building. For reference, look at the Insuduct, may be of use in getting the supply into the building, depending on your situation. https://groundbreaker.co.uk/products/insuduct/
 
Thanks so much guys. Very helpfull! We have old council slabs as a drive so i can lift them and make good after.

Will give water board a bell friday.
 
Hi guys. Wanted to get more advice on this.

We have got the costs back from waterboard and its going to cost £1100 to re connect. Would of been free if it was like for like swapout but as we are going seperate theres a cost. Thats fine.

I wanted to ask a little about fittings, im looking to put my own isilation valve down my drive, before going into the house stopcock.

What are the best brands to look out for when it comes to underground stop cocks? I seen the reviews for 25mm floplasts and they seem hit and miss, some suffer a leak at the stem.

Should i go brass body? Seen some philmac ones but not sure on the quality.

In the house im going to use a jg speedfit that is 25mm mdpe to 15mm.

Entry will likley be insuduct. The boiler is on the wall that i will be bringing the pipe through and i dont think i can get the bend radius using a duct.

Any help here would be great
 
i've not followed this thread closely but:
how come your utility isn't required to, free of charge, change all the lead pipe thats now in-situ with you and your neighbour's? ie take you all off this street stop-tap,common supply?
also, exactly what do the utility propose to do for £1100 - beware that their ideas on reinstatement and yours might be wildly different.

OP, why not post pics?
 
D

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Sponsored Links

Similar threads

N
Extension and waste water pipe advice
Replies
1
Views
932
WabbitPoo
W
T
soil pipe rear extension
Replies
2
Views
8K
noseall
noseall
M
New planning regulations - any experiences to share
Replies
11
Views
1K
tony1851
tony1851
2
Water main replacement
Replies
2
Views
246
23vc
2
M
Overlapping guttering on my neighbors a new extension
Replies
7
Views
4K
freddiemercurystwin
freddiemercurystwin
Back
Top