Acoustic plasterboard or not? Stud wall…

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0Floz0

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Hi,

I’m slowly getting there on my garage conversion. Thanks for all the advice so far.

My current issue is the stud wall. This will separate the garage conversion from the utility where the washing machine and tumbler dryer are.

My conversion is going to be a work space so I really don’t want to hear the washing machine when it’s going full spin. I’m doing a 3x2 stud wall. Should I bother with using knauf sound board just for this element? Ie, sound proof on both sides of the wall. Then standard plasterboard for all the other walls and ceiling in the conversion.

Budget is a factor so if gains are minimal I probably won’t bother. Would I need sound reduction insulation between the studs as well?

Thanks
 
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Yes, it should be worth it, especially on the work space side. You also want to fill the studwork with acoustic insulation, such as Rockwool RW45.
 
And/Or, get a decent washing machine. Got one and you can't tell it's on, apart from the final spin, and that's only for about 10 mins.
 
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You will never stop the noise, only reduce it.
Annoying truth is that the more you spend the quieter it will be. But you can never spend enough.

And then the noise will go through floor instead.

Suggestions.
1) cheapest is to instep the alternate upright studs so the two sides of the wall are not connected to the same stud. Cost is that you need more studs. (https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/drywall/building-soundproof-walls)

2) use fire board -still heavy but cheaper than noise cancelling and might be good idea if you still have a garage. You might have to buy these anyway for the ceiling to protect the room above.

3) if easier to buy lots of same type of plasterboard for whole job, double up the plaster board (two sheets thick with joints offset) to increase its mass. Or use all your offcuts to make second layer (or if you do not have enough off cuts use smaller offcuts to make second layer on inside of the stud wall between the studs, before you put on second side).

Sfk
 
Last edited:
I doubt you will notice any difference between the blue and normal board. There are so many variables with sound transfer, and you are better off concentrating on the structural detailing, surface finishes and the floor beneath the machine.

Ifs the cost difference between the boards is minimal then by all means give it a go, but don't expect magic
 
You might be best double boarding with normal plasterboard or use fireboard if cheaper than acoustic.

fill all gaps with acoustic foam


soundproofing is complex, in very simple terms: filling all gaps stops high frequencies, mass and isolation stops low frequencies.

your big problem is if the washing machine is sitting on a suspended floor with joists running in both rooms, vibration will travel across whatever you do to the wall.
 
Soundproofing is a all or nothing.

Stud wall
Resilient bars
Pack two of layers of boards so they don't touch sides and fill gap with mastic. Wall needs to float.
Just using sound blocking board won't do anything to block sound.
Its not cheap either to do it properly.
 
jacko555 said:
And/Or, get a decent washing machine. Got one and you can't tell it's on, apart from the final spin, and that's only for about 10 mins.
Click to expand...
In fairness I’ve got one and it is very quiet. So the hope is more to just block that last bit of noise out. It’s only important as I’ll be doing some streaming as well. So have a decent microphone and don’t want anything picking up.

SFK said:
You will never stop the noise, only reduce it.
Annoying truth is that the more you spend the quieter it will be. But you can never spend enough.

And then the noise will go through floor instead.

Suggestions.
1) cheapest is to instep the alternate upright studs so the two sides of the wall are not connected to the same stud. Cost is that you need more studs. (https://www.finehomebuilding.com/project-guides/drywall/building-soundproof-walls)

2) use fire board -still heavy but cheaper than noise cancelling and might be good idea if you still have a garage. You might have to buy these anyway for the ceiling to protect the room above.

3) if easier to buy lots of same type of plasterboard for whole job, double up the plaster board (two sheets thick with joints offset) to increase its mass. Or use all your offcuts to make second layer (or if you do not have enough off cuts use smaller offcuts to make second layer on inside of the stud wall between the studs, before you put on second side).

Sfk
Click to expand...
Thanks. Useful tips.

It’s a single attached garage so no room above it.

The sound board I can get for just under double the price of the standard. So probably a little more expensive but I get the idea of more mass means less sound transfer.

^woody^ said:
I doubt you will notice any difference between the blue and normal board. There are so many variables with sound transfer, and you are better off concentrating on the structural detailing, surface finishes and the floor beneath the machine.

Ifs the cost difference between the boards is minimal then by all means give it a go, but don't expect magic
Click to expand...
Yeah I guess I knew it wouldn’t be that easy. Those rubber mats seem quite good.
Notch7 said:
You might be best double boarding with normal plasterboard or use fireboard if cheaper than acoustic.

fill all gaps with acoustic foam


soundproofing is complex, in very simple terms: filling all gaps stops high frequencies, mass and isolation stops low frequencies.

your big problem is if the washing machine is sitting on a suspended floor with joists running in both rooms, vibration will travel across whatever you do to the wall.
Click to expand...
It’s sat on a solid floor I think. Pretty sure it’s screed underneath the vinyl. That’s what the stud wall is sat on too. Then the garage is a floating floor made up of polystyrene boards.
 
Wayners said:
Soundproofing is a all or nothing.

Stud wall
Resilient bars
Pack two of layers of boards so they don't touch sides and fill gap with mastic. Wall needs to float.
Just using sound blocking board won't do anything to block sound.
Its not cheap either to do it properly.
Click to expand...
Yeah. I guess I’ve not got the budget to sort it then. Is it worth doing standard plasterboard and then having the acoustic rockwool between? Or would you not bother as it’s all or nothing?
 
Jamesn88 said:
would you not bother as it’s all or nothing?
Click to expand...
I disagree that it is all or nothing.
The areas I did nothing (the stairs because of lack of space) transmitted more noise.

Lord of suggestions here. I would suggest you decide a budget and sound proof to that. Even if that is only double sheets of pb and some normal insulation. Then you can look back and be satisfied you did the best you could.

Sfk
 
Ps I found with cakes (a few years ago) had some of the best value sound reducing rockwool. No idea if it actually works as no comparison - I put it in and of course wish it works better when I can hear noise :)
But I would fit it again (and wish I had it under the stairs).


 
gSk7Udg.jpeg



Copy this.
Put one sheet of sound block over. Pack all four sides with 3mm ish gap.
Pull packers and fill with acoustic mastic. Don't let sides touch the surrounding surfaces.
Now skim wall over mastic if that's what you are doing.
I say 1 layer of sound block board will be fine imo for what you want.
Do you have a ccf branch near you? They can supply everything
 
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