Kitchen Downlighting - Suggestions please

winston1 said:

RF Lighting said:

So you can dim the lights.

Have you never had a candle lit dinner at the kitchen table with your girlfriend?

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Never. I use the dining room for that purpose.

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You do know that not everyone is lucky enough to have the luxury of a dining room?

ban-all-sheds said:

JohnW2 said:

I do sometimes wonder whether some of those who appear to have a blanket aversion to these things may have not noticed the developments since the days when all that was available were narrow-angle spotlights.

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One thing I have not noticed anywhere is the development where large numbers are not needed in to order to sledgehammer a way through the problem of them being intrinsically unsuitable for general room illumination.

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The best way to evenly and uniformly light a room is to have multiple overhead light sources. It's been done like this for many decades in commercial and industrial environments, and now domestic consumers are finally realising this.


Have a look at this case study of a job we did.

http://www.gdsuk.net/Products/Case_Studies/CaseStudy_St_Georges.pdf

The lighting installation, designed by people who actually know how to light a room, chose to install lots of small recessed lights in the ceiling. The lighting levels are superb with a uniform coverage in the whole auditorium.

Here's the technical spec of the lights incase you're interested.
http://www.gdsuk.net/Products/ArcSystem/Arc_System-1_Cell_Pro-Data_Sheet-Version_5.pdf

I've also installed the same lights at Manchester university, the Alhambra theatre Bradford, the Bloomsbury theatre London and several other venues. Not one of them has said "we'd have much preferred bigger lights that would not have provided any better illumination of our building"

RF Lighting said:

The best way to evenly and uniformly light a room is to have multiple overhead light sources. It's been done like this for many decades in commercial and industrial environments, and now domestic consumers are finally realising this.

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No - domestic customers have eventually been bludgeoned by ignorance and idiocy into thinking that they should try to replicate that style of lighting in their homes.

The lighting installation, designed by people who actually know how to light a room, chose to install lots of small recessed lights in the ceiling. The lighting levels are superb with a uniform coverage in the whole auditorium.

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Maybe things are different oop north, but down here, and in most of the country, people's rooms are not that big.

Also - look at the seating. Raked tiers of seats with folding cushions are indeed an excellent solution for that type of space. But just like I don't have that much space to light, I don't need to seat 1500 people. And if I needed to seat 15, I would regard the suggestion that I should install a mini-version of that seating as barking mad.

Ditto the suggestion that I should install a mini-version of that lighting.

I've also installed the same lights at Manchester university, the Alhambra theatre Bradford, the Bloomsbury theatre London and several other venues.

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Are you really incapable of getting it?

I had some good advice here - http://www.diynot.com/diy/threads/kitchen-led-lighting.439090/

For a kitchen, recessed spots still beat a single flush panel: you can put more light on the worktop and less glare where people sit. Aim for 3000K (4000K can look quite clinical over food), CRI 90+, and a proper baffle so you are not staring into the LED. If you dim, pair a trailing-edge LED dimmer with the driver — old rotary dimmers are what make cheap GU10s flicker. Spacing is roughly 0.5–0.7× ceiling height between spots, with a row over the run of units rather than a grid in the middle of the room.

For a kitchen, recessed spots still beat a single flush panel: you can put more light on the worktop and less glare where people sit. Aim for 3000K (4000K can look quite clinical over food), CRI 90+, and a proper baffle so you are not staring into the LED. If you dim, pair a trailing-edge LED dimmer with the driver — old rotary dimmers are what make cheap GU10s flicker. Spacing is roughly 0.5–0.7× ceiling height between spots, with a row over the run of units rather than a grid in the middle of the room.

For a kitchen, recessed spots still beat a single flush panel: you can put more light on the worktop and less glare where people sit. Aim for 3000K (4000K can look quite clinical over food), CRI 90+, and a proper baffle so you are not staring into the LED. If you dim, pair a trailing-edge LED dimmer with the driver. Old rotary dimmers are what make cheap GU10s flicker. Spacing is roughly 0.5 to 0.7 times ceiling height between spots, with a row over the run of units rather than a grid in the middle of the room.