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No all the steps are the same the staircase was bespoke manufactured, the joist is in the position its in because thats the size of opening the staircase manufacturers had on their plans, its just a few cm off. That sounds like a good plan I can run another length of timber along the whole...

Sorry not quite sure what you mean by this

Hi all, Just a quick one we're in the process of building a mezzanine floor with a staircase and we're going down the official route with building control etc, I am just wondering now that I've done it will building control be happy with the top newel post of the stairs connected to the joist...

This sort of thing https://www.tradingdepot.co.uk/rstbtwpan-rak-resort-toilet-pan

Yes - I don't think I've seen many about either. But almost everything on the market apart from bog in the box type toilets seems to be described as rimless, maybe a new thing as I don't remember that being the case a few years ago when I was last looking for a toilet for another bathroom

Hi, I'm looking for a new back to the wall toilet for use with a concealed cistern in my downstairs WC. Almost everything on the market appears to be rimless, I've heard mixed things about these from water splashing out or the flush not clearing the bowl properly. I'll be using a 6 litre...

Personally I've had good luck with Ansell and Fusion (cef own brand) bulkhead lights, they have 2/3 different lumen settings which is great if you're not sure exactly what brightness you'll need, and they're CCT, but internally, not from the light switch. I'm not a fan of the ones that change...

I wouldn't worry about it too much as long as they are LED, which they almost certainly will be, I doubt the tenants would want to pay the bill for leaving older incandescent sets running all the time! Even the dodgy LED sets online aren't so much a fire hazard rather an electric shock hazard...

For an exact replacement, if you buy a set of 100 chaser lights (any colour) from B&M they will have the exact same power supply. However, going off your reddit post, if the new 3.5V power supply you tried didn't work at all, I'd suggest the fault lies within the lights themselves. With that...

That is very clearly a class 1 fitting meaning it does require an earth, however no provision has been made so I wouldn't be confident that the light has been made to the appropriate standards and I would not install it personally. Where did you buy it?

That single insulated red wire hanging out of the ceiling is a concern, can you pull it out further and find out where it goes?

One of the well known energy companies recently called my dad about fitting a smart meter and in the discussion the company told him they couldn't remotely disconnect the supply! As far as I am aware, they CAN, so is that a blatant lie? Either way he turned it down, he is of the opinion (as am...

Imo if the property is getting a full refurb/is a new build it's silly to use wireless switches if it's possible to chase walls. However they are great for getting out of an awkward situation if chasing isn't possible and for retrofit work, I've used loads of quinetic gear, never had a problem...

A pic of the whole light fitting would be very helpful it is hard to make out what's what from those pictures. From what we can see though, the tape joints are not good.

I've used these in my kitchen with the surface mount ring: https://www.downlights.co.uk/cabinet-12v-led-downlight.html#product-info-description-wrapper LED drivers are also required, mine are on top of the cabinets. Not the cheapest going but they are high lumen (for 'puck' lights) and have...

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I am simply saying what I would personally do given a similar situation, it is up to the OP to decide what they want to do. They are not necessarily 'wrong' since the equipment to do what they suggest is commonly available and doesn't go against any regs. However I personally would think it is...

I am thinking about it in electrical terms, ignoring the instructions for now. It is just conceivable the 3A fuse on the permanent Line supply (i.e. what the motor runs off) might provide protection to the motor. The switch Line is just a signal wire, it does nothing else.

Indeed, however if that were the rationale, it seems to me more sensible to simply require a 6A mcb rather than a 3A fuse, which I agree can be a faff at times. We have a similar issue with ovens, they often want a 16A fuse/MCB, this isn't a standard oven/hob circuit in the UK. The general...

I will agree that electrically, a 3A fuse is likely to be of no use. But the regs do say “The installation of electrical equipment shall take into account manufacturers’ instructions”. So quite simply where practical and reasonable, I will follow them, if there is no reason not to. Tin hat on...