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Rather a late addition to this post but I have recently purchased a 18mm MFI flatpack kitchen. I have assembled all of the carcasses with glue along all joins as well as in the dowel holes. I made sure they were square before the glue was dry and they are very rigid. I even fully glued the...

I have read this post with interest as I am just about to fit a new worktop in our kitchen. When I took into consideration that my existing very underpowered router (Only used for small jobs) would need replacing and that I would have to purchase new bits for it, I instead decided to purchase...

We have recently had a kitchen extension built, the external wall to the kitchen and the internal wall to the dining room have been removed to make one big kitchen/dining room. I have found the highest point on the floor which is where the old kitchen outside wall used to be and started...

False doors is ok but not cheap. You can get splashback in large pieces that may be suitable (Still not cheap though, but often cheaper than the 'original' end and back panel options)

I need a 1/2 hour fire door between our new kitchen and the garage conversion. B&Q have a range of firedoors at a god price (From £45). What sort of door frame door I need? They also sell intumescent strips, do these fit into the frame?

Where our kitchen extension joins the existing kitchen there is a step formed beause the new walls have to have insulation in them as well as a clear cavity. I have removed the existing browning and plaster from the kitchen wall (Rather too easily as it flaked off!) Leaving a step of approx...

Sorry, to make it clearer:- 2 circuits with 5 individual spots on each, these will be chain linked (From one to the next, then the next etc and then to the switch) So yes you can access any individual light fitting which will have an in and out cable, the main neutral and earth connections...

Perhaps island is incorrect, more like a peninsular. I had thought about sockets on there, the closest ones will be on the nearby wall which should be fine (Otherwise they would be too close to the electric hob)

In my new Kitchen there will be 2 x 5 50w GU10 spot, each with a seperate circuit. Obviously with no ceiling rose I need to join together the main power feed and the switch and the lights. As we're not supposed to put connections in inacessible places, how should I join these together? I...

I've pretty much got that, we have 2 x 32a (6mm) supplies, one for the island hob and one for the high level double oven. Also plenty of sockets and DP switches for integrated applicances on the diagram I have drawn up.

BCO Notified on Building Notice that I will be completing work, will get them to inspect at 1st fix. I have PDF document from internet showing safe cable zones, horizontal, vertical and 150mm from walls etc. Also document showing positions for notching/drilling joists.

I am soon to be running new cables into our kitchen. Assuming diversity is used and standard 2.5mm T&E cables with the following appliances; Dishwasher (Cold water feed only) Washing machine (Cold & Hot Feed) Tumble dryer Fridge/Freezer (USA Style) Microwave Toaster Kettle Waste...

Ok Guys, point taken. I'll wait until the walls are down and see what access I have to run a new cable. Thanks Paul

The existing wall where the cooker was is being knocked down. The wire will instead have to be run in the roof for and extra 1m and approx 1m down the nearest wall to a new cooker DP switch. So need to extend it approx 2m

It would be difficult to replace it because of where it is located in the room, let alone the additional £25 of cable. There is already a 32a junction box on the cable that comes from the DP switch (To extend it further to the cooker) How acessible does it have to be?

As part of our kitchen refurb I need to extend the existing 6 or 10mm cable approximately 2-3m. (I haven't checked the cable size yet). What is the approved way of doing this ?, as I believe you shouldn't have inacessible connection boxes.

Ok, thanks. Looks like I need to get a cheap thermostatic mixer shower then!

Hi Kev So even with a valve before the shower restricting the flow it wouldn't work?

We are just having a new Combi Boiler installed in our extension, we have an existing Showerforce Regal Thermostatic power shower. Is there any way we can get the powershower to work with the Combi-boiler until I have the time and money to replace it? (I was wondering about installing a...

We are just getting ready to install a new kitchen in our extension. We have chosen Black Gloss doors for most of the units in a L shape with the one side of the L sticking into the room creating a peninsular. The peninsular will have a 900mm wide worktop to give a breakfast bar. There will...