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  1. M

    Push fit fittings leaking everywhere!!

    Help please... I'm burying all my CH Pipework in my walls, so have connected onto existing copper pipework under floorboards and fed Pipework into channels in my walls. Before I cover up my connections, I thought I should check them so ran some water around the system and water has ****ed out...
  2. M

    Preparing a brick/block wall for tiling

    Hi all, I'll soon be starting to fit my new bathroom, I've ripped out the old suite and pulled all of the old plaster/plasterboard off the walls. Where I've got external walls (3no.) they're either brick or block. On my stud walls, I'll fix plyboard to this area and PVA it before tiling...
  3. M

    Boarding a bathroom before tiling...

    Hi, I'm about to fit a new shower room and want to ply-board the walls and floor of the room before tiling. The walls are made up of both studwork, brickwork and blockwork. Where it's studwork, I'll fix the board using screws, but I'm not sure how to fix the board to brickwork/blockwork...
  4. M

    Turning CH on after months of non-use

    So can I run the CH system without turning the gas on? I don't want to check the boiler, just for the system to flow at its operating pressure to check for any leaks.
  5. M

    Turning CH on after months of non-use

    Hi all, I'm refurbishing a house and have had my gas and water shut off at the mains for a couple of months now. I've just finished running all my CH Pipework and want to test it before it gets covered over with flooring or plaster, so I've linked some spare pipe across all the...
  6. M

    Can I fit a door in this opening?

    Thanks, I'll be going for oak doors anyway, so that's good news! Thanks for your help!
  7. M

    Can I fit a door in this opening?

    I've got a structural opening which is 78" from FFL to the underside of the lintel. I want to fit a door/frame into it, but a carpenter I know said that an opening for a door set should 80" to allow an inch at the top and at the bottom for the floor covering and the door frame. Basically, my...
  8. M

    Plasterboard Fixing Methods

    I'm sure this question has been asked a lot, but I can't seem to find the answer to either of my questions.... 1. Fixing plasterboard to bare brick. Am I better to dot & dab, or fix it to battens? Dot & dabbing seems to be the more common choice, but I think I'd personally get a better finish...
  9. M

    Minimum height of Sockets

    Hi All, Fitting some backboxes ahead of getting some new sockets wired in and I can't find anything trustworthy online to say if there is a minimum height which the sockets should be mounted at. It's a 1930's property which was re-wired in around 2005. Currently the sockets are mounted at...
  10. M

    Plastic push-fit and radiator valve connections

    Yes - green arrows. Can I just use compression fittings on the plastic pipe then? Assumed I wouldn't be able to!
  11. M

    Plastic push-fit and radiator valve connections

    None of the actual fittings will be buried in the walls, just the Pipework. I don't know how to upload a picture, but they're all standard 3/4" threaded radiator valves. These were a compression fitting before, but I don't know how to marry the two? It must be possible, because I have seen...
  12. M

    Plastic push-fit and radiator valve connections

    Hi all, I'm in the process of burying all of my central heating Pipework into my walls and have decided to use poly pipe and push fit fittings to do this with. I'm currently stuck at what I do with my connections for my rad valves - do I want 'tap connectors'?
  13. M

    Wetroom Kit Recommendations

    Thanks, I'll try and find a supplier. Mind me also asking where that screen is from too?
  14. M

    Wetroom Kit Recommendations

    Can anyone recommend me a good wetroom/tanking kit I'm getting confused with all the different systems and I'm a bit limited on space, so need something 800x1200 max. Thanks in advance, Ryan.
  15. M

    Installing Underground Drainage

    This follows a post I made a few months ago when I was at the planning stage... I've now got my trenches dug out and all my parts are coming tomorrow. Plan is to pour in my pea shingle level and achieve the gradient I need (1:40) by packing under the drainpipe with packers to achieve the...
  16. M

    Saggy joist!

    I have exactly the same problem - but was advised by a structural engineer to just leave it because the joist is sound. Interested to hear what you do about this.
  17. M

    Floorboards

    Hi, I've pulled up some damaged floorboards in my 1930's house, which I assume to be original. I've measured these as roughly 114mm x 12mm. As far as I can see, I can't get any replacement boards of the same size, or even thickness (which is the main requirement). Does anyone know where...
  18. M

    Window Bay Movement/Re-building

    Hi, I've got a defect with my bay window and getting conflicting advice from builders and window fitters on how best to remedy it. The problem is; I've got a 1930's double-bay (3-section) fronted semi. The upstairs bay has some cracks in the mortar where it joins the rest of the building...
  19. M

    No bay-poles...options?

    Hi, We've just bought a traditional double-bay fronted 1930's Semi. The Structural Engineer reported that the (recently replaced) uPVC bay windows didn't have bay-poles, which had caused some movement to the bay on the first floor. I was wondering what my options are? Are the bay-poles an...
  20. M

    Raised patio and bridging your DPC

    Hi All, We're building an extension on our property with bi-fold doors, and so we want a raised patio at the same level as the internal finished floor level. I can't, however, work out how I'd build a raised patio without bridging my DPC! All of the guides I've looked at surrounding raised...
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