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I thought this was going to be easy! Replacing old loo and cast-iron pipes. There is a very neat ~110m hole ready for me. New, plastic pipe needs to go through wall, turn 90 degrees in order to join up with the soil stack. Just like 90% of every stack not lucky enough to have the pipe come out...

Am doing a bathroom Reno; doing the preparation myself but will be getting someone in to do tiling and plastering. I am planning to use cement backer (wedi or similar) around a wet shower area, with a glass screen. The wall there is plastered, flat and in reasonable condition, so 6mm board...

I have a 1930s built house, where the foundations are a concrete raft and most of the ground floor is then a raised timber floor on top of that. The utility room that I wish to tile is not on raised timber, it has concrete. It has changed shape from the original layout, so has a small strip of...

They're these: http://www.duration.co.uk/Royale-Putty-line-Steel-Replacement-Windows-Technical.asp#tabs I may try and give them a call as it's really puzzling me. It feels like the inside horizontal bar needs to be removed (I can disassemble/reassemble OK then - gasket peels out then the...

So in my continued journey of window replacement - I am trying to remove glass for fitting the frames, and then reassembling once that's done. Most of the guides I can find refer to uPVC, and my ones seem to have different challenges. These are glazed from the inside. The panes have horizontal...

on the one I've got in front of me, it's probably a 1.5 to 2mm on each side, so pretty tight.

yes, could be the screws I have are OTT for what's being asked - based purely on me doing internet searches for alu windows being fixed direct-to-brick. I'll get some of those easydrive ones mentioned by lostinthelight as the head looks less deep, which might solve the issue. I did also wonder...

Possibly daft question. I'm installing some new alu frames. I have got fischer frame fixing screws (a la https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p85179?table=no). Unfortunately it seems that the glass is on 1mm packers. This means the screwhead sitting proud interferes with the glass when replaced...

I'm replacing windows in a 1930s house which at some point someone has clearly re-painted the existing steel frames, and done a poor job as there is paint up the sides of the reveal. It's not a huge amount, but enough to be annoying. I've tried "Paint Panther" (ho ho), but probably because the...

DTS92 plus a BDR91 attached to the pump ? Would there be any advantage to the HM80, or is it completely unneccessary?

Hi I have a honeywell evohome installation that uses HR92 TRVs on ordinary radiators. Works well, I like. Kitchen/Dining room extension in progress. ~45m^2. Am going to install UFH. Probably single zone. I would like to integrate with evohome. I am confused by what products I would need to do...

I guess what I was really driving at was "is 18mm WBP overlaid with 4mm of marmox board sensible, or have I missed some other more effective method" It would? It all looks pretty simple to me, modulo correct selection of appropriate products and the appropriate care of installation. Even...

Nothing above joist level - room has had everything stripped out. Services are all in place. I'm thinking of Aqua-Dec Linear 2, at 1200x900 size.

I have a bathroom where the entire floor (including joists) have been replaced. I intend to use a 22mm 'wet room' style tile-over tray, so I have mounted 18mm ply between the joists for support. (I've actually continued this for the entire room since the bath we're looking at looks heavy, I had...

well, that was partially my thoughts too. It sort of made sense to me when 'boxing' a steel beam, but I wasn't sure what the BCO would want when it's flush for the specified '30mins of fire protection'.

2x steel beams in a kitchen/dining room, both hidden in the ceiling. Fireline (pink) plasterboard has been used whenever there has been steel above, "ordinary" elsewhere. Is this sufficient, or is it required to do 2 layers of plasterboard (I thought that was only if we were using non-fire...

So, we're after building a boundary wall. 1m high. We'd like it to fit in and match the style opposite, which looks like a limestone wall, mortared. Every time I google for stone suppliers, I get dry stone walls, which this isn't. I assume I need blocks rather than "walling". Any tips for...

Yeah.. problem is though that section of the kitchen is only a 3m span (going into a steel), it's just one bit of a much bigger room (kitchen/dining room knock-through) :-/

Planning ahead for a kitchen central island, with in an ideal world extracting either into the disused chimney flue, or to the side wall. Of course, the joists go the wrong way for that. They are relatively large however - 8" at 12-14" centres, for a ~3m span. The whole ceiling will be down...

Thanks all - that's really useful information. The price differential here is staggering!