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http://idealboilers.com/uploads/documents/isar-he24he30he35-serial-letter-code-prefiex-prior-to-xf-installation-and-servicing.pdf Page 39 appears to show the boiler as having an outer case and underneath a combustion chamber seal/plate and page 53 details how to remove the DHW exchanger...

Hi, A friend of mine has an Ideal Isar boiler which has been installed for 12 years. His central heating has been playing up recently, it needs filling on a regular basis as one of the rads is leaking (I'll try and tackle this later). However his hot water has now stopped working completely...

Megaman dim to warm are mint gu10 bulbs, rather expensive though I got them for £4.50.ea from an eBay seller

Hi We have a storage heater and have recently redecorated the room. The storage heater wires now look really out of place so I was wondering if it would be OK for me to hide them in the wall. We have 3 units on the wall. From left to right we have a 20A DP switch for the storage heater, a 13A...

A gentle bump to see if anyone can answer my question a couple of posts up? 8)

Hi people, What we've done is wired in a CCU for the 6mm cable/hob and linked it to a newly added backbox via 2.5mm t&e. The new backbox is for a single 13A socket that will supply the cooker. Please let us know if this is OK.

Thanks for the help guys. The appliances are going to run to FCU's above the work surface. With regards to the cooker,we need a plug socket as the flex for the oven is hard wired in so we cannot use 6mm t&e. With this in mind,do I replace the socket with a cooker connector unit (...

non-electrician BUT The CU is missing an earth,also those fat tails are missing a connector block leaving the wire exposed (bottom of pic)? [edit]I'm an idiot,you would have done that to isolate the CU?

Cheers. The cooker switch is above the worktop and the wire is definitely 6mm back to the CU. Do you have any more information on spurs etc? I really did like the idea of a socket at the back of a cupboard, but you think this is the wrong way to do things then?

Hi, We're starting to strip our mums kitchen in prep for fitting a new one. When I removed the induction hob I noticed that it was fed directly from the rear of the plug socket that was designated for her cooker. The socket is fed with 6mm cable direct to a cooker switch above the worktop...

To be honest, the low pressure isn't a huge deal. Her shower is electric and that's what gets used most - baths are rare. I've read about unvented cylinders, they're pretty expensive and need maintenance every year so the costs are adding up. I thought a small electric pump would be a cheap and...

Hi, My mum lives in a flat where the hot water is supplied from a vented combination cylinder. As you probably know the hot water pressure is very very low in this situation and as I understand it the only ways of boosting pressure are either a) raise the height of the tank or b) use an...

These links don't work.

Barbados is 8,5kw

I have the same shower, as seco has said the thermal cut out could be faulty - I imagine you'll be able to find a replacement. I might be able to take a picture of ours in next couple of days if it helps.

Cheers guys, I can't find 9mm foil-backed plasterboard anywhere but I guess this 12mm stuff will do? http://www.wickes.co.uk/vapourshield-plasterboard/invt/220230/ ... actually might this be better? http://www.wickes.co.uk/aquapanel-water-resistant-backing-board/invt/220561/

Hi, Our bathroom ceiling has both a loft hatch and downlighters installed. Another (easier to access) loft hatch has been installed elsewhere and the downlighters are pretty shoddy so rather than fill in the gaps left in the ceiling we feel it'd be easier to simply replace the entire ceiling...

Lagged all the pipework, just wondering about the shower pipe now. At the moment the pipework for the shower runs through the loft. I've had a look and think it's probably easier just to run behind the plasterboard and down to the cold tap supply under the bath - what do you think? Are...