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Managed to agree to return the current door when new one arrives so hopefully resolved the issue

I've been dealing with a joiner who's making a door for me. I was initially advised 4 weeks. 5 months later I've finally received the door but internal dimensions are a few cm out and rather than insulation wood sandwich it's single panel. I've complained and joiner gas offered to make...

yeah i'd wondered that. possibly selling within 18months so don't envisage baby moving out of nursery before then.

Hi. I have 3 bed house I.ve been renovating. There's a large bathroom on the first floor and my original plan was to install an ensuite off the master attic bedroom. This would be small and pokey but my feeling was it would add value when we come to sell. The room was ensuite before but bathroom...

glad i've sparked some conversation! I measured the total floor area and costed per m2 of underlay. However i'm led to believe that with the carpet it's best to avoid lots of joints across rooms so there can be a reasonable amount of surplus. I'm just guessing that this isn't the case with...

I'm preparing to carpet some rooms with original wooden floorboards. The boards are ok but there are a few nicked edges and gaps up to about 15mm. We're going to lay a decent underlay but i'm wondering if i should be preping the gaps in any way or whether the underlay/carpet will ride over them...

i'm trying to calculate the most efficient way to lay my underlay. I'm presuming that can use the off cut sections to make best use of it. It'll mean more joins but is this a problem? I ask because i've recently had a quote and having gone over the sums the company seem to have quoted for...

Anyone used this: http://www.diy.com/nav/decor/flooring/flooring-underlay/SELITac-5mm-Foam-Flooring-Underlay-12608623 cant find any reviews. Looks like the job but seems cheaper

i'm about to lay some laminate floor on concrete base which is a bit uneven and trying to decide if i need separate dpm or if i should go for the 2in1 stuff. Quick-step softboard says its suitable to accommodate unevenness but needs dpm is this the gist of it...2in1=thinner and better on even...

Thanks for the replies. I'm thinking of going down the connector box route to keep everything nice and tidy. Can anyone recommend any connectors?

I'm just planning for some downlights and wondering the best cables to use between lights. The fitting looks like it will take one 1.5mm feed but i thought they would connect daisy chain style with 2 cables into each light apart from the last in the chain. Am i way off the mark? or missing...

Is it ok practice to use a 3 gang, 1 way switch box instead of a junction box, with neutrals connected together? Got a live feed in from another junction box but trying to keep the system neat...for 3 lights i would need three 4-terminal junction boxes so wondering if it's better or ok to...

thanks that explains it...the last room i did i used the 1200x2400 and cut down but it looks like the same insulation so figured i could make my centres 50cm and the 450 would be an easy fit. I'd welcome any thoughts on this before i start building though :D

Hi, i'm building a stud wall with 450mm centres and planning on fitting insulation between each stud. I've noticed that celotex, kingspan etc make boards 450mm wide which would be slightly too wide for the gap. Why don't they make it the correct width for ease of fixing?...am i missing something?

2 things i'm trying to work out: I' insulating a room in an old sandstone building. The internal walls are rendered but externally is lime pointed. I want to insulate so was planning on building studwork against the old wall with 25mm air gap, insulation between studs, then plasterboard...

Thanks, the wall is sandstone so was thinking of using long frame fixings. I'm just unsure of how to make the wall the level so that when i fix plasterboard the joints line up ok. I was planning on insulation between the battens then plasterboard on top. Should i also be thinking about dpm...

Hi, just wondering if anyone has any tips on battening out an old sandstone wall that's pretty uneven. I'd like to leave a small gap to allow airflow. Should i screw horizontal timber to floor and ceiling and work off that, or should i start with vertical timbers on the wall, suitably packed...

Thanks for all the advice so far. There is a removable cap at the very bottom facing the floor but the chimney sweep said he wouldn't be able to gain access from there either because its too awkward to get to.

just read the last reply...its a rear flue. ta

Thanks, I'm assuming that would work if the flue was connected to the top of the fire box. Ours is a rear flue with 90 degree bend upwards.