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if I’m reading this correctly the terminals coming from the hive are volt free? Eg l and n are 230v into hive and the others 1,2,3,4 are not (which is where i should be connecting cn5)

I’d like to install a hive i have purchased connecting to my boiler. I have a hive mini and vokera vision plus 40c. I can pick up the live and neutral but don’t know where to connect the hive to the boiler (see picture) Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Looks like it might be threaded which I’d say you be knackered getting it to tighten back on again, it’ll be easier to just replace it I’m pretty sure they’re only a few quid.

Ok so I’d be potentially running a 7.4 kw induction hob and a 3.5kw oven on a 6mm cable which having checked the consumer unit is on a 32amp breaker. Is there some sort of table for working this out?

Thanks guys, so I suppose the only question I need to ask is can I split the 6 mm original feed to run an induction hob and the new oven?

I’m ready to press go on ordering a new oven and the guy who is fitting my kitchen say that i might be able to run it off the kitchen ring as im wanting to move it away from the hob. I just thought I’d put it out there just to avoid me having to go back to the consumer unit with its own...

It is a boot lintel on further investigation (so itll be on rotation) which is why the crack in the blockwork has appeared. I’m going to reinforce with blockwork at either end unless anyone has a less invasive way of propping it. Thanks guys for the input much appreciated

Having uncovered the lintel here after removing the old knackered wooden porch, I’m very concerned that it isnt bedded onto any brick/blockwork at either end and that the widow and door are in fact holding the lot up! Any id as folks i was thinking i could block up a pier at either end and...

Cheers guys. It's a Georgian house and there's no void between the ceiling and floor (another reason for raising it up for hiding pipework) just 4"x4" joists with floorboards on top. I was planning on bolting timbers around the outside and hanging new joists across the room roughly 3m span. The...

Thanks. I didn't realise that I would need to get building control involved it was more for my own piece of mind. Nobody wants the bath jumping through the floor, that could be messy!

Hi I would like to move my bath into another room above the kitchen. I will need to build a stage on top of existing joists as the levels are terrible. Does anyone know anywhere that I can find out if all this extra weight would cause me a problem and where I could look to work this out. Thanks...

Hi guys. I have bought an oak veneer front door and an internal one and was wondering if anyone could help me out with how best to finish them or what to use. Id like them to look pretty much as they do now with as least glossy look as possible too. Any help would be much appreciated thanks.

Hi guys/girls. Just after some advise on finishing my oak veneer doors. 1x internal and 1x external if that makes any difference. I just want a none glossy finish on them and dont really want to change the colour of the original wood too much either but must be weather proof. Ive been told not...

Hi guys/girls, was just wondering how cast iron soil pipes were joined as I need to rotate the 't' from facing left to facing right as I'm re-planning my bathroom and thus moving my toilet to another wall. Any help would be great thanks

Probably some sort of weep hole for letting condensation out of your cavity so not best to block them up really

I want to do a small amount of block paving in my back garden (10m2) and was wondering if anyone could tell me what sort of base to put under it, how much hardcore sand etc. It will only have light foot traffic and the odd wheelie bin so nothing heavy. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Just to add, Howdens usually supply my kitchens and all of the warranty info comes with all of the receipts in a pack for the customer so I would assume the bathroom equivalent would be the same.

Your bathroom fitter may be getting it all from Howdens because he can make a little money on supplying the suite himself but the only way you would find out for sure is to price it all up yourself. If you supplied the bathroom suite then he may charge you more to fit in case of any problems...

I would say that the skirting was the least of your worries as the good man before me said you could always cover with quadrant/beading. Your architrave will be too short and you'll never fill that gap very well plus your door frames will have been cut back to a certain extent leaving a gap...