Cooker feed

[ZiberU]

I’m ready to press go on ordering a new oven and the guy who is fitting my kitchen say that i might be able to run it off the kitchen ring as im wanting to move it away from the hob. I just thought I’d put it out there just to avoid me having to go back to the consumer unit with its own designated cable after the fact and needing to get an electrician involved (also it may change my mind on which oven to get). The one I’m looking at is a Zanussi ZOPNA7KN. Any advise would be a massive help

 

[EFLImpudence]

You wouldn't need a cable to go back to the consumer unit; just back to the present position.

The details say the oven is 3490W which is too much for a UK plug BUT not all elements might be able to be on together.

It doesn't say whether it comes with a UK plug or not.

 

[Murdochcat]

Well, you probably don’t need a dedicated circuit but for flexibility in the future AND to reduce the potential load of the socket circuit, a dedicated circuit fitted now could be a very wise investment

 

[BlueLoo]

As someone in a modern house who's constantly tripping the kitchen ring main overload because kettles, toasters, washing machine, tumble dryer, etc, etc.

I like the oven on it's own tail.

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

In general, you should avoid adding fixed appliances to a ring main circuit, besides which - that oven is rated 16amps, 3500watts, so it is too much for a 13amp plug to be fitted, and just plugged in. Likewise if connected via a fused spur, it would be limited to 13amps.

 

[ZiberU]

Thanks guys, so I suppose the only question I need to ask is can I split the 6 mm original feed to run an induction hob and the new oven?

 

[ZiberU]

Ok so I’d be potentially running a 7.4 kw induction hob and a 3.5kw oven on a 6mm cable which having checked the consumer unit is on a 32amp breaker.
Is there some sort of table for working this out?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Ok so I’d be potentially running a 7.4 kw induction hob and a 3.5kw oven on a 6mm cable which having checked the consumer unit is on a 32amp breaker.

Yes, 4mm² would actually be adequate.

Is there some sort of table for working this out?

Yes, we call it diversity because even when 'all on' cooking elements cycle on and off with the thermostats such that they are off (not drawing current) more than on.

10,900 Watts @ 240V is 43.4 Amps.

We take the first 10A plus 30% of the rest, so:

10 + (33.4 x 0.3) = 20A plus 5A if there is a socket on the cooker switch.

So 32A is fine.