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if its condensation it will be fine and there will be no need for rereplasteringust wash down any mould with bleach and water mixed or an anantifungalolution and put the heating on. check to see if any salts are on surface of the plaster if so it could be rising damp. dadampproofingan :lol:

your looking at prob about 150 for dpc dpc 200 - 250 plastering 1 m2 5mm2 mmnimum charge. dpc dpcit yourself a monkey could do it. if using creams drill into mortmortar 6" above external ground level and holes 3 " apart. but look for external defects first gutter, higher ground levels, poor...

if i was you i would scratch coat 3/1 sand and cement with with a waterproof additive with a salt inhibitor incorporated and float out with 4/1 without additive to allow it to absorb atmospheric moisture then skim over for a more longer lasting and secure job. also make sure there are no...

i was always told the reason for not skimming brown side down was due to the overlapping of the paper on the edges as it caused a problem of peeling

:oops: :oops: :oops: :wink:

would go for the eml option mate best you are sure to have no problems then and the bell cast should go just above the damp course level so there is no bridging of damp course and the water is taken away at this point

dry coat is a cement based plaster coat used to plaster after a dpc is introduced, used it a fair few times best idea is to leave it for about 3, 4 days if pos because of the shrinkage time. option now is to just skrim cracks and skim over

only way is remove paint by scabbling the brickwork or fixing eml to brickwork.

scratch coat 3 to 1 with a waterproof and a salt inhibitor additive. float coat with 4 to 1 without additive can use a plastisizer set in multi finish. leave 6 weeks before you paint. dan the dampproofer :D

currently work for a dampproof firm, and in these situations we use a plasterboard known as thermo board. it comes in various thicknesses and can be bought from travis perkins or buildbase. it is fixed with board adhesive and spit fixings (nailable plugs) this will solve your problem, aswell...

softus mate its people like you that cause wars i read your last discussion on rd all i can say is some people say it exists and some people don't.

to review if has dried out or not and some casses it has dried out and some not but more not be their is casses belive it or not it has dried out

bromley council has only a damp course put in and is reviewed 1 year later some of the jobs we go back some we don't

what you're telling me is that all the houses that are built don't need a damp course because no water will rise up ?????? you tell me what the damp course is for

work for a dampproof company and can tell you there is such thing as rising damp which is when your current damp corse breaks down or fails you need to install a new one which your best option is a chemical one. that is you're purpose of having a damp course to stop it rising

you need to install a new dpc 6 inches above the outside ground level to allow for the splashback of rain and replaster inside and out using a waterproofer to youre render mix whice should be a ratio of 3.1

after i've skimmed and its dried it comes out very light pink colour almost white why sometimes when i see other plasterers skimming its bright pink if anyone could shed some light please :?:

i normally only do rendering and screeding but recently done some skimming for a customer as i do it every so often. when the room was finished it looked fine but the lady asked me why its not pink. but it just threw me as when i've done skimming before it comes out a white with a slight pink...