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Hi all I am trying to plumb in a rainshower head via connection in the loft. The plastic pipe for the feed from the thermostatic valve is already in place. My thoughts are that this pipe needs cutting to size, at the appropriate point, and then use a speedfit elbow to connect into another...

Hi all Got an potential problem with how to tile a wall where there is a shower outlet point for connecting a hand held shower attachment. If you see the photos, the problem is evident. The tiles are 10mm depth (so 12mm allowing for adhesive), but it seems clear to me that this will obscure the...

Hi all, I'm trying to cut a single 800mm tile to go around a shower recess as follows. My first attempt is wrong, as I've cut the edges too wide around the recess to enable the trim to be set correctly. The tile is not actually fixed in place, this is just to show what the intention is. I...

Hi all, got an odd issue developed with a Bosch 34CDi Greenstar When switched on, the display shows "7" for the start temp There is the usual pause, and I can also hear a soft 'click-click' sound repeating every few seconds (I don't recall this sound previously) The boiler flame then...

Hi all We have an integrated Indesit washer/dryer which seems to have a major issue during the spin cycle. It is basically in new condition although we've owned it for some time. We've never been able to use it because when it gets to the fast spin, the whole machine becomes really unbalanced...

Hello all, what is the correct cable to use for connecting a 6kw induction hob to a standard cooker switch socket (cooker switch and a single socket), which is fed by a 32A connection? There is an oven also connected to the single plug socket on the above. Would 2.5mm T+E suffice (rated at 27A...

Hello all We would like to run power and ethernet to a recently constructed garden office (actually a log cabin). Distance to the main house is approx 50m. There is a spare 32 amp on the existing consumer unit. The cable run can be partially buried, but would need to be along the bottom edge of...

Posting this here as there doesn't seem to be a category for stoves and chimneys. We have a Charnwood Country 4 woodburner connected to a flexible liner, installed by a HETAS chap a few years back. Always worked perfectly. Until recently, when we noticed that it's not drawing like it used to...

We have a combi-fed Mira Excel shower, which has developed a temperature problem. Used to run hot, but now only runs a touch above luke warm. Here are the symptoms- Turning the temperature control on the shower fully to the left (hot) results in a brief moment of full hot water before then...

As part of a renovation, our plumber installed UFH in the main ground floor areas, as we were having new floors laid. Rads were installed in the rest of the house. The UFH is in two separate zones (separate flow monitors for each). Therefore, a 3 zone system in total. The plumber left us with...

Our carpenter put a doorframe in an existing aperture, but only the same width as the single skin brickwork. The walls were then subsequently dot-n-dab'd by a plasterer, and skimmed. The plasterer said that the doorframe needs to be replaced with the correct width timber? Is he correct? I...

We've had to replace all the floors in our house, as part of a renovation. They have been constructed using 100mm insulation and there is UFH laid within new concrete slabs. However, there is no top screed, just the concrete slab itself on which to lay the final flooring. My concern is that the...

Hi all We are laying 6mm Tilemaster cement boards over floorboards, and just wanted to know which is the best or most commonly used method of installing these? - A layer of rapid flex tile adhesive, then screw the boards into the flooboards using 25mm screws - Use 'green grip' adhesive on the...

I've come across the following, and would like to know how this is achieved/constructed? It appears to be one single piece of walnut grained wood, or similar, from which the various doors/panels have been mapped out and cut. I don't need to go to this extreme, but would like to build something...

Currently trying to figure out what to do with the brickwork underneath an old bay front window. It's in a right state, as you can see in the photos. Someone has attempted to do some patchy repointing previously, obviously using the wrong mix and concrete all over the brickwork. My question...

Wasn't sure where to post this. We are in the midst of a full back-to-bricks renovation project. Our heating engineer convinced us that UFH was the way to go, since we had to dig up and replace the existing floors anyway. The original fireplaces also had to come out, to allow some brickwork...

We're in the process of stripping the original pine floorboards (first floor) in a 1920's house. Once the process is complete, what is the best method/product to use for preserving these - wax, stain, varnish? They have already been treated for woodworm.

Does anyone have any experience with this product? We have been advised that this would be a good solution to levelling the entire existing concrete ground floor of a 1920's house.

Sanding some old floors using a belt sander, for the most part this is doing a good job. However, some areas of the floor are covered in a dark-coloured coating which just clogs the sanding belt up in no time. I've tried nitromors but this doesn't do anything. A heat gun and scraper helps but...

We have a 1920's house, consisting of the following flooring areas- Concrete floors in the front and rear rooms. The kitchen is quarry tiled, as is a pantry/under stairs area. The hallway area is compacted concrete and ash, but is solid, although it's uneven where the old terazzo top layer had...