1 way or 2 way switch

[Wilska]

Hi,

Some years ago I received great help here re-wiring a lamp safely and now I've another hopefully simpler question.

I need to replace the bathroom light switch as it gets stuck.

The light switch operates a single bulb in the bathroom which is a double insulated plastic fitting as there is no earth wires in the lighting circuit of our home as it is old. (We had the socket circuit and consumer unit renewed recently but haven't yet had the light circuit renewed)

Obviously I switched the elec off at the consumer unit to take this photo.

I would like to know if I need a 1 way or 2 way switch here. I think the old switch (pictured) says 2 way. Also I would not know which colour wire to put in which hole in the new switch.

I realize I sound a bit dim but I am a skilled leather worker, I just don't know anything about electrical matters.

Thanks for your help

Hugo

 

[EFLImpudence]

You only need a one-way switch but a two-way will do the job as well.

It doesn't matter which way round you connect the wires - but the switches vary in the way they mark the terminals so can't advise yet.


If you get a two-way, post a picture of the new switch when you get it.

 

[Wilska]

Thanks EFL,

I will post the pic of the new switch when I get back from the hardware store shortly

 

[Wilska]

Here is the new switch.

I think if you zoom in you can just about see where it says
L1
L2
COM-L

 

[johnny2007]

Red in com, black in L1.
Some particularly helpful electrician would sleeve the black wire with brown or red tape, although, I don't know what difference it would make in a switch with only 2 wires.

 

[Wilska]

Thank you Johnny I will give that a go shortly

 

[mikeyd]

And don't worry that the drawing shows a wire in L2 instead of L1 as suggested above. Either way it will work the same.

 

[johnny2007]

Not to be pedantic, but I was helping an electrician for years and he was very precise with his work.
When you fit the wires, make sure no copper is visible and the screws grip the copper without destroying it, so tight but not too tight.
And secure the switch on a joist so it doesn't pull the plasterboard down.

 

[johnny2007]

In reality it would work even with black in com and red in L1 or L2, but again, having worked for a "meticulous" electrician, I keep doing things as he liked.

 

[Wilska]

Some years ago i had secured timber between joists and screwed it securely because the switch was requiring more and more force as it got stickier and it was only pulling the plasterboard so at least that bit is done.

The cable entered the old fitting centrally but I noticed the new one comes in offset so will I have to make one of the wires longer ?

 

[johnny2007]

If you pull the cable GENTLY, doesn't it come out a little bit more?
There should be some slack in the ceiling, hopefully.

Edit: looks like you have enough there, maybe you just need to open the grey sleeve a bit more.

 

[Wilska]

Thanks I'll give it a go, I'll wait for daylight

 

[sparkwright]

IF YOU CAN'T OBTAIN ENOUGH SLACK ON THE CABLE, save yourself a load of stress and aggro, and take the switch back to the shop, and get the type with the two screws on the front, and the hole in the centre - like the old one.

It will be a better job than trying to extend the wires.

 

[Wilska]

Thanks folks, luckily there was enough slack on the cable and it's all working fine.

I come on this forum before starting any electric DIY as I have no knowledge, it's the safest way and I'm always impressed and grateful for the guidance so thank you all, you do a great job

 

[johnny2007]

Well done!
Slotted screws???