16 Amp for ring main (plugs)

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Hi,

Just been fitting out our garage into a room and was fitting a few more plugs into the room.

Had a look at what the electronic put in, and followed it back to the fuse board. When I followed it back, it went into a 16 Amp fuse.

Further to this, the two plugs that the electronic put in does not go back to fuse board (i.e like a ring would do)

I want to put in 4 double sockets and one for the TV on the wall.

Do I need to change the 16amp in the fuse board to 32amp?

The fuse board is an MK one, have had a look around and just wanted to make sure that this was case.

Btw before people ask the electronic has gone awol and I can't get hold of him. A new one is coming in to complete other work but not until January and I need to get this room done as soon as possible.

Thanks Jim
 
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You need to check the size of the cables used, i.e. the diameter of the copper.
It’s likely it’s too thin to supply 32A, hence the 16A fuse.
The circuit doesn’t need to loop back to the fuse board - what you have is called a “radial” circuit.
16A may be fine if you don’t have electric heaters, multiple kettles, cookers etc.
 
Hi,

The cable that has been used is 2.5mm cable, the same as everything else in the house.

The 5 double sockets are in a study, so run maybe a TV, PC and lighting that's about it.

I always thought it was better to run it back to fuse board.
 
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Hi,

Sorry consumer unit.

Ahhhh okay, so I can run 5 double sockets on a radial circuit then with no issues.

This will be good off a 16 Amp fuse within the consumer unit?

Thanks James
 
Hi,

Thanks for that and the reply. This is brilliant, I will now crack on and get this plasterboard.

Thanks for the help and advice.

James
 
You have what is refereed to as a radial, and yes the definitions are confusing, the main distribution board coming into the house can be type tested and called a consumer unit, or it could be before type testing came in and could actually be a fuse board, even if a fuse board it could have the originally fuses replaced with miniature contact breakers (MCB) or have a earth leakage circuit breaker (ELCB) which could be voltage or current operated, and also has a host of other names like RCCB, GFCI and RCD, and the RCD and MCB can be combined as a RCBO. There is a need when people refer to tripping to work out what has tripped, however in the main it really does not matter, 16 amp is 16 amp be it a fuse, MCB or RCBO and it really does not matter if wrong term used when it is quite plain what is being refereed to as it is 16 amp.

There is nothing to stop a modern consumer unit from still having fuses
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some times used for electronic equipment as a semi-conductor fuse will rupture faster than a MCB can trip and is required to protect some solid state switches, although never seen them used in a house.

We use a lot less power than we think, my dad fitted a 13 amp fuse for a radial (fused spur) in the kitchen, did not even realise it was there until tried to use two kettles on bonfire night some years back, TV's and the like use very little power, and even if you did use two or three items using the full 13 amp, all it would do is trip the MCB or blow a fuse, so it fails safe. And so easy to reset a MCB not really a problem. With a fuse yes can be a problem as should not use re-wireable fuses in some where under the control of an ordinary person, and finding a shop that stocks a 16 amp cartridge fuse could be a problem.

The only problem adding extra sockets is they need to be RCD protected, and the cable length for earth loop impedance and volt drop should not be exceeded, to be frank with RCD protection even if it was exceeded it would be unlikely to cause a problem.

So yes as long as RCD protected simple add the sockets and leave the 16 amp protective device as it is. If not RCD protected then replace the socket it is coming from with a RCD FCU (fused connection unit) so all after it are RCD protected.

It may seem pedantic, but we go by the design date, not installation date, so if you alter the design, then the alteration has to conform with current regulations, so RCD protected, but the original design does not need altering. However missing RCD protection would still be listed with an EICR (electrical installation condition report) as in the main we don't know the design date, so assume designed yesterday. But would only get a C3 code, which means you can continue using it. Only exception is if some new equipment manufacturers instructions say must be RCD protected.

If we went by the rule book, we would tell nearly every poster you can't do that, but in real terms unless rented property then just do it. You should not break the speed limits, but I bet everyone does at some point, either not seen the sign or still slowing down, hard braking to get speed down on seeing sign is clearly asking for rear end shunt, so we use some common sense, and same with electrics, just do it.
 
The OPs post is amsost certainly incorrect about either the type of protective device or it's current rating. 16A and 32A fuses were not a thing in UK domestic wiring.
 
Perhaps posters intentionally call things by the wrong names to determine which repliers correct them and show that they know what they are talking about.
 
Why would an item of equipment require an RCD?
A really good question, however we are told supplies to caravans, inland waterway boats, and electric powered cars must have RCD protection, I know my sons boat had diodes between the shore earth and boat hull, always seemed suspect to me, would prefer an isolation transformer, however to do the risk assessment you need to know the risk, and without reverse engineering the equipment one does not know what is in that equipment which may present a risk.

So with an electric car for example I don't know what components may fair making the body of the car live, with my sons narrow boat I knew the only item likely to cause a earth fault was the battery charger, so I could assess the risk as very low due to battery charger being class II, but how do I know what is inside a washing machine, fridge/freezer, or central heating boiler that could cause an earth fault, all I can do is measure the resistance between the earth wire and any exposed metal work, and we are told we should not use the traditional 25 amp between the earth wire and chassis of electronic equipment as it could damage the printed circuit.

However that damage could result in exposed parts not being earthed, so unless we do use the 25 amp test for earth continuity then if the manufacturer says this unit must be protected with a type B RCD of 30 mA all we can do is take the manufacturers word for it that it is needed, we can't know if pulsed DC or any other DC component can be generated under fault conditions unless we know what is inside the device, so maybe we can say that class II TV does not need RCD protection, but can we say that class I TV does not need RCD protection?

I remember looking at an Oxford oil cooled welding set, in side it there was no insulation, and being dropped off a forklift the bars had bend and were dangerously close to shorting input to output, this could result in 300 amp being send down any earth bonding, my way around the problem was no bonding cable under 35 mm² but I only knew the risk because I had removed the lid to inspect.

Yes the rules have changed, we only have to take manufacturers instructions into account now, but you are a very brave man if you don't follow them.
 

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