16mm2 conductor terminals
- Thread starter alex889
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Yes you are correct.
Generally speaking an RCD trip in the feed to an outbuilding will only affect the outbuiding and generally the outbuilding will be occupied at the time of the trip.
Assuming that is the situation, the inconvenience of the RCD being in the house is not likely to be any different to the fault finding situation.
I was merely trying to add weight to the previous suggestion the convenient location for the RCD is generally in the outbuilding.
Sure - but, as I said, unless the outbuilding's electrics are dodgy or one is doing dodgy things (and/or with dodgy equipment) in the outbuilding, that 'convenience' will only show itself 'once in a blue moon'. Off the top of my head, I can't recall any occasion on which something going on in one of my outbuildings resulted in an RCD (anywhere) tripping - if it's happened at all, it must have been a good few years ago (since my memory is still not all that bad
).Kind Regards, John
Again I can only agree with you.Sure - but, as I said, unless the outbuilding's electrics are dodgy or one is doing dodgy things (and/or with dodgy equipment) in the outbuilding, that 'convenience' will only show itself 'once in a blue moon'. Off the top of my head, I can't recall any occasion on which something going on in one of my outbuildings resulted in an RCD (anywhere) tripping - if it's happened at all, it must have been a good few years ago (since my memory is still not all that bad
Kind Regards, John
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I find them a big larger then I would like to put inside a junction box on the wall
The henley blocks are quite chunky as well, so I'm leaning to crimps or din
Yep, I'm leaning towards crimps and the crimper, pretty cost effective and compact. I'll add some heavy duty heat shrink sleeving and that should be it
It might be acceptable and possible to gland the armour into the wall of an earthed metal box and extend the inner cores and sheath onward through the house using conduit as extra mechanical protection to the inner sheath and cores.
Probably not easy if it is a long run inside the house but does avoid the need to joint the cores.
Problem with that is the cost of the swa cable, nearly twice the T&E. I've around 30m run of T&E in total and 22m of SWA.
If it's going in a galve box I'd tend to go for din terminals.
Picked at random:But maybe that's just because I'm a panel guy and would have had stock.
I'm trying to find a small enough weatherproof box to put din terminals, looks very neat.
It will feed another small consumer unit with RCBOs, which then will feed the car charger and any possible additional things. Everything in the house that will feed this is already fitted with RCBOs
I don't like these plastic terminals with screws, I've seen them getting loose with time, sparks coming out and burning. I had this in my house, then I replaced everything with wabo boxes and wago 221 connectors, now I can rope skipping with the wiring with zero maintenance.
You say henley blocks are chunky, you used to get single pole ones that were thinner, though not seen then for a while, Henley is a brand name, so maybe made by others
They look chunky from what I've seen, so not something I could fit on a 100x100mm box I guess, but I'm happy to be proven wrong. I've checked a few options, all of them are quite large for what I need that is nust to connect 3x 16mm conductors to other 3x 16mm conductors
These are not as big but a pair may be:
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/19287/connector-block-mains-5-way-60a/dp/PL09975
The earth wire:
https://cpc.farnell.com/pro-elec/19...k-4-way/dp/PL02041?CMP=CPC-ebooks-BIGBOOK2019
Or another option, something like one of these:
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc...X7Ig_AUVFkv9LkPAmcolgIrOYEJb2jKYaAjCFEALw_wcB
In which case you don’t need RCBOs in the small CU.
Don't be so sure about that. I have had only two problems with wago's, never got to the bottom of one but the second was in a motor terminal housing, the motor had been replaced and the wiring didn't all reach so 2 wires extended, both were showing signs of overheating, one had burnt right through the wire.
Many of the maintenance free connectors depend on a spring pressing the connector's contact pad onto the wire. When the copper of the wire is clean and bright this does produce a reliable connection. If the copper strand(s) deforms under the pressure then the spring maintains the pressure. If deforming occurs in a screw connection then the screw needs to be tightened.
Where maintenance free connectors can fail is when the copper wire is tarnished or corroded. This non conducting coating reduces the area of contact with the pad on the connector which may result in over heating at the connectors rated current.
In a screw connector the rotating screw is pressing on the strand(s) and will abrade through the tarnish and in most case this creates a large contact area. ( doesn't apply when the connector is a screw cage connector as the screw does not touch the wire )
Where maintenance free connectors can fail is when the copper wire is tarnished or corroded. This non conducting coating reduces the area of contact with the pad on the connector which may result in over heating at the connectors rated current.
In a screw connector the rotating screw is pressing on the strand(s) and will abrade through the tarnish and in most case this creates a large contact area. ( doesn't apply when the connector is a screw cage connector as the screw does not touch the wire )
Bare in mind the T+E Earth will be significally smaller, meaning crimps will be unsuitable for that, or was you planning aditional seperate 16mm Earth
The plastic has no bearing on the electrical connection, or the likelihood of terminal screws becoming loose. Virtually all electrical accessories etc. (including your CU) are full of (metal) screwed connections surrounded by some sort of 'plastic'.
Kind Regards, John
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