17th edition numbers???
- Thread starter Activ8
- Start date
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not in the electricity regs, but in the building regs for disabled access ( part M ) in new builds and major refurbs only.. ( ie gut it back to the brick and move some walls type refurbs.. )..
it's all from FFL not from the ceiling down ( as each ceiling might be at a different height.. ) 450 minimum up, and 1200 maximum..
it's all from FFL not from the ceiling down ( as each ceiling might be at a different height.. ) 450 minimum up, and 1200 maximum..
only for new build, general rennovations not included, not sure about new extensions, dont think so, but dont have my book here.
IIRC its 450mm upwards lowest point of accessory, 1200mm max, highest point of accessory.(might be wrong though)
also its not just sockets and switches, it accessories, so FCUs etc are the same requirements.
damn, must type faster...
IIRC its 450mm upwards lowest point of accessory, 1200mm max, highest point of accessory.(might be wrong though)
also its not just sockets and switches, it accessories, so FCUs etc are the same requirements.
damn, must type faster...
Yep thought those figures were right. We are having to have the house re-wired (over 25 years since it was done) but we wanted to keep the light switches and sockets where they are to cut down on the mess !! Is it law then that this has to be aheared too ?? Just a question - what are FCU's ??
Dave
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Dave, it's a rewire no need to alter the heights of your switches, sockets or fcus, even if your putting additional ones in, the regulation concerns new dwellings and even then with a bit of arm twisting, you could get away without complying.
Fused connection Unit/ Fused spur
FCU = Fused Connection Unit, often known as "Fused Spurs" - e.g. these: http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK1040.html (you can also get unswitched versions)
he might be able to help...
two odd and four even numbers, if that helps?
Fused Connection Unit. Just another example of the accessories that fall under these regulations - a plate with a fuse fitted which may or may not also have a switch. You may have one feeding a boiler, for example.
The advice is correct that technically you don't need to implement the Part M accessory heights, but when I did my rewire (part of a big renovation), I chose to do it anyway. After initially thinking sockets looked strangely high and light switches strangely low, I'm now b****y glad I did too. Stick your finger out infront of you with a simple bend at the elbow - that's where the light switch is. Sockets can be reached with a slight kink of the waist
. The whole setup is much more ergonomic and now looks 'right' to my eyes. If it's good enough for the disabled, it's good enough for me .
Is building control involved at all, either because the rewire is part of some other work involving a building notice/plans, or just because you are carrying out the rewire yourself, or using a non-scheme-registered spark? If so you might want to consider asking your BCO what they will accept, because whilst the advice here is correct, some LABCs do love to interpret the rules as they see fit, and whilst you could argue the case, it may pay for you to maintain a friendly cooperative relationship with your LABC!
Imho there's no reason not to use the Part M socket heights on a rewire. Are the existing locations really exactly what you want - no light switches behind doors etc etc? And you almost certainly dont have enough sockets, so plenty of mess needs to be made anyway installing new locations. Are you aware of the guidelines for number of sockets in rooms? May as well do it all 'properly'.
Liam
EDIT: Oh - I'm a few posts late with that first paragraph, but never mind.
The advice is correct that technically you don't need to implement the Part M accessory heights, but when I did my rewire (part of a big renovation), I chose to do it anyway. After initially thinking sockets looked strangely high and light switches strangely low, I'm now b****y glad I did too. Stick your finger out infront of you with a simple bend at the elbow - that's where the light switch is. Sockets can be reached with a slight kink of the waist
. The whole setup is much more ergonomic and now looks 'right' to my eyes. If it's good enough for the disabled, it's good enough for me .Is building control involved at all, either because the rewire is part of some other work involving a building notice/plans, or just because you are carrying out the rewire yourself, or using a non-scheme-registered spark? If so you might want to consider asking your BCO what they will accept, because whilst the advice here is correct, some LABCs do love to interpret the rules as they see fit, and whilst you could argue the case, it may pay for you to maintain a friendly cooperative relationship with your LABC!
Imho there's no reason not to use the Part M socket heights on a rewire. Are the existing locations really exactly what you want - no light switches behind doors etc etc? And you almost certainly dont have enough sockets, so plenty of mess needs to be made anyway installing new locations. Are you aware of the guidelines for number of sockets in rooms? May as well do it all 'properly'.
Liam
EDIT: Oh - I'm a few posts late with that first paragraph, but never mind.
You have got 25 year old wiring and it needs replacing, are you sure, also if it doesnt, and you want to keep everything exactly where it is then why not just have a consumer unit and bonding upgrade ??
Also....
Consider yourself lucky if new cables can just be pulled through. It's quite likely that the plaster will have to be removed to get the old cables out and the new ones in.
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