2-4ml gap in boarded ceiling

S

snadge

well I have boarded the ceiling (staggered) and there are a couple of 2ft gaps about 2-3ml and one 2ft 4ml - will these need filled or can i put scrim tape over and plasterer will catch it up with plaster through the scrim?

the first board was floated in and wasnt exactly flush in corner as didnt have anything to run up to and thats how the gaps appeared - done well for my first ceiling hehe quite chuffed with it (walls are next with D&D - should be fun)

thanks
 
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I take it you mean mm :D yes fill with skim then cover with your scrim.

You beat me to it TM but the old way is to fill with your skim then run your scrim in to the wet scrim then lay on.
 
S

snadge

i'll just fill it too be sure with some filler and sand it smooth then put scrim over it

thanks a bunch guys - this forum rocks
 
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S

snadge

2-4mm I would scirm tape and not bother with fill the gap, do that when the tape is on.

all done

heres a pic: (getn a price with dot&dab aswell as plaster whole room cos im gunna have a go at it but wanna know how much if i struggle with it)

looks rough where i filled it but its not its smooth

fbx3lx.jpg
 
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I take it you mean mm :D yes fill with skim then cover with your scrim.

You beat me to it TM but the old way is to fill with your skim then run your scrim in to the wet scrim then lay on.
That's what I do/advise; the boards should be close butted & if you don't fill the gap before you tape, it can leave a witness line in the finished plaster & unless the skim is really worked through the tape mesh it's more likely to crack due to there being just a thin layer of plaster over the gap.
 
S

snadge

I take it you mean mm :D yes fill with skim then cover with your scrim.

You beat me to it TM but the old way is to fill with your skim then run your scrim in to the wet scrim then lay on.
That's what I do/advise; the boards should be close butted & if you don't fill the gap before you tape, it can leave a witness line in the finished plaster & unless the skim is really worked through the tape mesh it's more likely to crack due to there being just a thin layer of plaster over the gap.

thats what I thought so i filled it - as you can see from my pics above:)
 
S

snadge

looks like your sparky has put those lights too near to the joists :eek:

how far should they be?

I put them in before the ceiling and they are about 50mm from joists whch im sure it said in instructions for them to be at least that far away?
 
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50mm? are you sure? I would be a little concerned about that and off the top of my head it is normally 150mm, they get bloody hot and I have seen them scorch timber!! Are you aware of part P ?? Best to be sure about this and also best to sort anything before skimming the ceiling!
 
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50mm? are you sure? I would be a little concerned about that and off the top of my head it is normally 150mm, they get bloody hot and I have seen them scorch timber!!
Didn’t spot that; I believe 50mm is the minimum stipulated by some down light manufacturers but I think that only just acceptable, personally, I’d double that where possible.

Are you aware of part P ?? Best to be sure about this and also best to sort anything before skimming the ceiling!
From your pic, that looks very much like a kitchen & is classed as a special location. DIY electrics in a special location must be notified (before you start), tested & certified compliant or use a Part P registered electrician (your common or garden electrician is not acceptable) who will install, test & issue a minor works certificate which you will be asked to produce when you come to sell up.
 
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It's gonna be no big chore to put those spots bang in the center between joists and you cant to better than that!
 
S

snadge

well i held my hand up 50mm away from the bulb hanging out and it didnt even barely FEEL the heat coming off it, my hand didnt get warm, nothing..?? - theres no way that timber will catch fire from those - what about Shielded tape on the joist? I could use summit to stick through hole and stick it on joist?

I dont want to have to start cutting holes if i can get away with it, i used a stanley knife to do those and needed access to back to cut out too to get the piece out, i dont have a thin small old bread knife either - just thick ones that wont cut small diameter

hmmm...

thanks for the advice like, im considering it

i have to say like the photo above does it NO JUSTICE they do look really close in that picture cos of the angle perhaps...im sitting here now looking at it and it doesnt look as bad as the picture
 

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