2007 Renault master won’t turn over, start

[Mr Chibs]

Morning

Solar panel is 135w charging starter battery and two 110amp gel batteries.

Was last used 3 months ago, but usually this is no problem.

I’m not convinced it’s the battery, will test jump starting... when I find the leads

 

[Mr Chibs]

If the starter motor is kaput, jump start won’t work will it?

If it does work, does that signify the battery?

just trying to narrow down the possibles.

 

[Mottie]

If it starts with a jump, that will rule out battery. If it still doesn't start with a jump from a known good battery and decent jump leads, it could be the starter, the solenoid, the switch, the engine earth, the wiring to the starter or possibly something else.

 

[Mr Chibs]

Ok, here’s the latest... just thought as it’s been lashing down, I’d check the batteries (all strong on voltage) and try to turn it over.

on the first attempt just the click sound, second attempt however it fired up.

Turned it off, and third attempt back to the click.

What’s anyone’s thoughts on this now?

Appreciate the help, as I’m no mechanic.

 

[Mottie]

If I had to guess without seeing it, I'd say dodgy solenoid.

 

[Burnerman]

Although you may be seeing a healthy battery voltage, no one knows how much current the battery can deliver.
You can, however get some idea of the battery performance by watching your multimeter as you crank the engine over.
The reading mustn't read much less than 11v, much less than that then either the battery is goosed or wasn't fully charged in the first place. Can you give that a try?
John

 

[Mr Chibs]

Thanks, managed to get it started again, second time, by pressing the hell out of the brake pedal Whilst turning over, started with no hassle, solenoid or brake pedal switch?

 

[Mr Chibs]

Will check the voltage as mentioned and report back later on.

thanks guys.

 

[Mottie]

With the headlamps on, when it doesn't start and just clicks, do the headlamps dim considerably or remain the same?

 

[Mr Chibs]

When it doesn’t start, headlamps stay the same.

 

[Burnerman]

I think I'd be disconnecting the brake pedal switch and bridging the terminals, just to rule it out.
John

 

[Mottie]

When it doesn’t start, headlamps stay the same.

Unlikely to be battery related then.

 

[Mottie]

I think I'd be disconnecting the brake pedal switch and bridging the terminals, just to rule it out.
John

Is it a two stage switch? Or even two switches? I made a similar mistake myself once with a new bike I had.

I had the same with a Suzuki Burgman I bought brand new. You had to pull the rear brake lever to start it. Starting was hit and miss. In my garage I could actually hear the switch clicking when I pulled the lever but still no start. I took it back under warranty and felt a bit of a plum when they said I wasn’t pulling the lever hard enough. I told them I was as I could hear the switch clicking and could see the brake light coming on and showed them. Yes, they said, now squeeze a little harder. I did and then I heard a second click. Oops!

 

[Mr Chibs]

Well, I’m a bit confused now.

Got the multimeter out whilst starting it, normal amount of pressure on the brake pedal. Battery went to 11.89v and once started was showing 12.8v+.

Fired up first time. So could this possibly swing to the brake pedal switch?

I will see if I can find out what type It is (single/two stage), they seem fairly cheap, so fingers crossed.

 

[Burnerman]

The reduction in battery voltage is due to a drain caused by the stop lamps and maybe the glowplugs operating.
Try a few more times to check the starting isn't just a coincidence!
However, with the engine running the voltage needs to be in the region of 14.4v if the alternator is behaving.
John