sorry, i might sound thick as s*** here, but what do you mean, one on probe? sorry
sorry one on the earth. and other in each connector one at a time.
3 port valve question (s) as no hot water
- Thread starter reneel
- Start date
sorry one on the earth. and other in each connector one at a time.
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ok than ks. will do it now... just a bit wary of touching with power on as have only tested with power off before. i trust you though ... and it's completely safe right....
one last set of q's (sorry again) any earth in the wiring centre will do right ... and even though other wires are in each connector eith the 3 respective wires, it is still OK and will give a true reading?
i really appreciate your help, especially this ate on a friday night. sorry if i am going on and on about obvious stuff to you.
one last set of q's (sorry again) any earth in the wiring centre will do right ... and even though other wires are in each connector eith the 3 respective wires, it is still OK and will give a true reading?
i really appreciate your help, especially this ate on a friday night. sorry if i am going on and on about obvious stuff to you.
earths are useally near the beginning of the block
just don't touch the end of probe with your hand.
if you disconnect the wires you won't get the reading we need.
just don't touch the end of probe with your hand.
if you disconnect the wires you won't get the reading we need.
ok, am off to do it now (with wires in the blocks).
i'll post the resuts when done.
i'll post the resuts when done.
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there was nothing (no reading) in the block which had the orange wire connected to it. so after thinking about it and working it out, i believe the thermostat call switch is not making contact? is this definetely right? i need a new cylinder thermostat? the current one is ACL. (is this in fact the same company as drayton or am i way off!)??? i for some reason thought it was??! anyway i will need another one i presume, any recommendations?
one last thing if possible ... and thanks so much for helping. if i have heating on tomorrow morning, is there any way i can move the motorised valve lever over or anything i can do at all, so i can get both hot water and heating when heating only is calling, until i get a new cylinder thermostat in the afternoon?
one last thing if possible ... and thanks so much for helping. if i have heating on tomorrow morning, is there any way i can move the motorised valve lever over or anything i can do at all, so i can get both hot water and heating when heating only is calling, until i get a new cylinder thermostat in the afternoon?
what did the other two read first ?
thats why i said do 3 checks that will tell me the stat is faulty.
must have the other two readings or it could be the programmer is not giving a live.
thats why i said do 3 checks that will tell me the stat is faulty.
must have the other two readings or it could be the programmer is not giving a live.
jst done the whole test again - ok, set the meter to ac volts, 600 setting. hot water on at the programmer, and the red light came on at the programmer also. touched earth terminal with one probe and the orange terminal with the other. it gave 0 reading, the grey wire terminal (with earth also touched) gave a reading of 243!! and the other termial gave a 243 reasding also (with earth touched). which is weird as i thought ac in the uk was 230v now!
orange wire 0
grey wire 243
programmer 243
is that correct ?
grey wire 243
programmer 243
is that correct ?
yes that is corect - i have just checked again... does it mean a faulty thermostat?
no not yet one more test to prove programmer ok.
you can do it now or in the morning, but tell me when your doing it.
their is 3 wires in one of the terminals.
grey
one from stat
one from programmer.
i need you to isolate the fused spur.
take the wire from the programmer out, so it leaves just the grey and stat wire in the terminal.
put a bit of tape on the wire you took out.
turn power on and give me a reading on the grey wire.
you can do it now or in the morning, but tell me when your doing it.
their is 3 wires in one of the terminals.
grey
one from stat
one from programmer.
i need you to isolate the fused spur.
take the wire from the programmer out, so it leaves just the grey and stat wire in the terminal.
put a bit of tape on the wire you took out.
turn power on and give me a reading on the grey wire.
ok i will do it now as i am wanting to sort it..
shall i do the test again on volts with the earth touching the other probe?
i am not 100% sure yet how this will prove the programmer is OK, but i trust you so will do it - it would be good though to know what this is proving??
thanks for staying up so late and helping.
shall i do the test again on volts with the earth touching the other probe?
i am not 100% sure yet how this will prove the programmer is OK, but i trust you so will do it - it would be good though to know what this is proving??
thanks for staying up so late and helping.
same test as before.
its proving the voltage is coming from the stat satisfied and not from the programmer hw off. even though its on
its proving the voltage is coming from the stat satisfied and not from the programmer hw off. even though its on
ok i see, it proves if the stat or the programmer are faulty. i will check now. bear with me please.
wel the reading as instructed, had 243 again. i know it is after 12 now, but what does this mean, i am not 100% sure myself, but am thinking maybe a faulty cyinder thermostat.
now that tells me the power on the grey came from the stat.
not from the programmer as it could of been a faulty hw on/off switch.
the stat is giving a satisfied and by now it should be calling for heat.
now you want hw till you get a stat.
write on a piece of paper where you took that wire from.
and leave the take onit till you get your stat.
go and turn hot water off at programmer and put heating on and wall stat up.
then give it a few mins and feel all the pipes coming out the valve they should be hot .
MAKE SURE THAT WIRE IS TAPED BECAUSE IT WILL BE LIVE.
hurry now im sleepy LOL
not from the programmer as it could of been a faulty hw on/off switch.
the stat is giving a satisfied and by now it should be calling for heat.
now you want hw till you get a stat.
write on a piece of paper where you took that wire from.
and leave the take onit till you get your stat.
go and turn hot water off at programmer and put heating on and wall stat up.
then give it a few mins and feel all the pipes coming out the valve they should be hot .
MAKE SURE THAT WIRE IS TAPED BECAUSE IT WILL BE LIVE.
hurry now im sleepy LOL
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