3 port valve question (s) as no hot water

[reneel]

so it has proved the cyl stat is not switching (making) when it should be (ie should be caling for heat). it is probably stuck.

and that the programmer is ok.

do you mean tape the wire at the end on the uninsuated bit? i know it will be live, and i know where the wiring links up, ie i have a layout and good idea of it. it's just the following:

i have just turned heating on (but like the other day) got no hot water when heating was on do i need the heating on full temperature on the room stat dial to get any hot water?? won't the 3 port be on the heating only position, thus closing the h/w side off?

 

[seco services]

you will get hot water now. thats why i have left that wire out to keep the hw port open.

THAT LOOSE WIRE WILL BE LIVE so make sure its ok and taped well.

you'll have to turn temp up above room temp to keep boiler running or you'll not get any heat. so you may get abit hot but the cylinder don't take long to heat.
make sure hw is off on timer.
let me know if all the pipes are getting hot on the 3 port valve.

 

[reneel]

omg it is working!!! the water is getting hot now to the hot water cyinder!!!!!!!!!!

how comes? seems like magic!!!

i am confused but glad it is working. i am tired too so probably not taking it in properley!!

so the cylinder stat needs replacing - and that last test was to make 100% sure - and also, the wire removed to allow the water to heat up???

what i do not get is this: when hot water is ok, and heating stat is broken, you can get heating by manualy opening the motorised valve, and the room will warm whilst the cylinder stat is caling for heat. but why does this just not work for hot water when the hot water cylinder stat is broken?!!!

 

[seco services]

long story i will tell you tomorrow, but get a stat and all will be ok.

must go to bed early job in morning.
i catch you tomorrow and explain.

but if you need hot water you need your heating and stat turned up for now.

see you tomorrow. im getting nagged at now.

 

[reneel]

haha - i get ya!!!!! ok thanks a lot for tonight and all of your help. you are a legend!! i will ook forward to you telling me tomorrow how it works!!! seems like magic!! thanks again. all the best.

 

[reneel]

hi seco - i have a new cyinder stat new, fixed it up yesterday. ony cost £10.99 from B & Q!! Is a drayton, which is a gd make i believe!

It was easy to wire up, just 3 wires C 1 and 2 terminals, the instructions even gave wiring insuctions for when replacing with a different make/model cyinder stat.

Are you gonna let me into the secret then as to how you magically made me have hot water on Friday night/Sat morning!?? It was amazing.

 

[seco services]

good you done it ok
let me read back over the post and i'll remember it all.

 

[reneel]

ok thanks - one other point i'd like to ask about also: one of my rads (in my bedroom, upstairs) gets coldish at the top and has to be vented of air, probably every 2-3 weeks. why is this? only this rad has the problem... is it normal? when i vent it, like i did again about 1 1/2 hours ago, it hissed for about 20-30 secs before water came out.. what would be causing this please?

 

[seco services]

right i'll go over the basics but im not the best at lechters.

a mid position valve with no power to it is in the relaxed position.
heating shut hw open.
if you put power to the white and the valve will open the heating port by using the motor.
if the motor fails you can use the lever to move it across so heating port is open.

the hw water on does not really have nothing to do with the valve as the valve is already in the relaxed position if only hw called for hw-open heating closed.
it only takes power off the grey until hw satisfied or turned off at programmer.

but grey will also hold the valve in the last call instead of going back to relaxed position.

thats what your stat was doing telling the grey it was satisfied so of cause holding the hw port closed.
so we removed the grey letting the valve go back to relaxed (heating closed hw open)
then by switching heating on would put the valve in mid position and give us water both ways. hw, heating.


your are more likely still confused but it is best to learn yourself how they work, if you google it their plenty that tell you.

 

[seco services]

ok thanks - one other point i'd like to ask about also: one of my rads (in my bedroom, upstairs) gets coldish at the top and has to be vented of air, probably every 2-3 weeks. why is this? only this rad has the problem... is it normal? when i vent it, like i did again about 1 1/2 hours ago, it hissed for about 20-30 secs before water came out.. what would be causing this please?

can be air being drawn down the vent pipe in the loft.
can be a joint letting air in but not enough to leak
can be sludge muck in system
electrolytic corrosion the steel rads and copper pipework brass fittings etc are reacting with each other

 

[reneel]

thanks for yall your help, i will read the info you gave me slowly and google info as it ois really interesting.

 

[reneel]

hmm i am slightly worried now!!! as it is only this single radiator, it is puzzing me - i would think if the vent pipe was drawing air in other would too be affected maybe? maybe the radiator valve joint is sightl letting air in as you mentioned.

 

[seco services]

wouldn't worry
try one of these http://www.heatandplumb.com/acatalog/Aladdin_Automatic_Radiator_Bleeder2.html

i think bq do them. i got one one on a tall lounge rad works ok.

 

[reneel]

thanks - i think i have seen them for about £10ish in b and q.

will the probem of air getting in to the radiator cause a long term problem? this automatic air vent wil not cure it will it? if you recommend one then i'll buy one tomorrow evening after work and fit it though.

 

[seco services]

like anything some people like them some don't
but mine works ok.
their are many systems out their that get one rad needs bleeding and towel rails or vertical rads can be the worst.
not knowing your system for age or quality of water condition or age of rads etc its hard to judge.

you can check the vent pipe for drawing in air is hold the vent pipe in a pint glass of water see if the water disapears.
it can be the speed of the pump making the air and instead of finding the vent pipe to escape it gos to a rad.