3A fusing for Manrose in-line fan

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Yet to decide on final solution for the switching of the fan when I stumble into another problem (for me that is)
The manufacturer states the requirement of 3A fusing as well as an isolator.
I found http://www.qvsdirect.com/excel-3-pole-fused-fan-isolator-switch-white which I assume would fulfil both needs, except. I assume the device will only fuse one connection. Because the isolator carries both L and SL for a timed fan.
Would I be right in assuming it would be of no use and would two fused spurs be the only solution (one for each live feed)
Hope I've explained myself better this time. How do you guys fulfil manufacturers requirements in a much simpler way
 
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are you supplying it from a lighting circuit?
 
then you need a 3-pole isolator in the wiring supplying the fan. You don't need a fuse in the isolator. If you want to add a 3A fuse (which you don't actually need because the lighting circuit will be a 5A or 6A) then it has to be prior to your ceiling switch and whatever jb you are using to split the live for unswitched and switched. If you were switching the fan with the lights in the usual way, you would take both from the lighting rose/backing plate.

If you are adding an extra (unnecessary) fuse you can use an ordinary FCU. I'd suggest one with a neon as it will not usually occur to people that there might be an unnecessary extra fuse and that it might be blown.

IMO that ad for the 3-pole isolator with fuse is a trap for the unwary and you should erase it from your memory.

Fan isolators (and your unnecessary FCU) can conveniently be placed above the bathroom door, outside the bathroom, where they will be visible and accessible but unlikely to be operated wilfully or accidentally.
 
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but not if it had been on a socket circuit, or something else of higher amperage
 
If you look at the winding on a fan, they would not take 3 amp, the winding would burn out well before a 3 amp fuse would rupture, so if the fan is stalled the fuse will not protect it, there are two preferred fuse sizes 3 and 13 so if fitting a fuse it would be 3 rather than 13 when supplied from a 16 to 32 amp circuit, but in the main due to ceiling rose being rated at 6 amp lighting circuits are 6 amp, they could go up to 16 amp if no junction boxes or ceiling roses rated at 6 amp are used, but it is normally 6 amp for lighting. So in the main when supplied from lighting no fuse is used.

As to if supplying from lighting is the right move is another question, the fan does need an isolator as they do fail and if they fail you need to take it out of circuit so lights can be used. The regulations only require a fan if bathroom windows do not open, and where there is no natural light you can trigger the fan from the lights. However where there is a non opening window you must be able to switch on the fan without switching on the lights, any push button to trigger fan will also switch on lights even if only for a second, so if you want lights to trigger fan then it needs a two pole light switch so you can also have a push button for fan as well. So although switched with lights it is electrically isolated from them.

To me this seems to be a lot of work, a PIR to work fan seems far easier so it has nothing to do with lights being on or off, or of course a simple push switch. In mothers house we do have opening windows, but the building inspector said since ground floor and visitors to house would pass the windows in real terms they would not be opened so insisted we had a fan, however he did allow it to be only switched with the lights, as soon as he had gone the isolator was switched off, we do now use the fan to help dry the wet room after having a shower together with under floor heating, but never use it while having a shower as it causes too much of a draft, so in real terms there was no need for it to be on lights.

In my own house opening the window is not a problem, we don't have a fan and can't see any neighbours with fans although some should have fans as the windows have been made non opening when double glazing was fitted. It does seem very few follow the rules. I suppose the double glazing firms should have advised owners that they needed a fan with a non opening window, had they done that I suspect most would say fit an opening window, so I think the double glazing firm never told them a fan would be required!

I would say main reason for fan in a bathroom is to help it dry out, so today would not connect to lights. In a toilet there is another reason of course, but neither mine or mothers house has bathroom and toilet combined. OK there is a toilet in the wet room, but that's rather special only there because my mother is an amputee.

So if the work is not being inspected by LABC then I would simply connect to light if a toilet is fitted in the room, but if the LABC is involved you need to know the rules, and check what he wants, as said there was to rule book no need for fan in wet room, but LABC inspector insisted one was fitted.
 
Having spoken to Manrose in the past, I believe this requirement is to cover for people using sub 1 milli csa's to feed the fan.
 
Having spoken to Manrose in the past, I believe this requirement is to cover for people using sub 1 milli csa's to feed the fan.
Nothing to do with the fan, or the maker.

Everything to do with normal rules for protection of cables.
 
Having spoken to Manrose in the past, I believe this requirement is to cover for people using sub 1 milli csa's to feed the fan.
That doesn't make a lot of sense. If they believe that "requiring" the fitting of a 3A fuse will overcome that problem, they could just as easily prevent that problem from arising in the first place by "requiring" cable of at least 1mm², couldn't they? ... and, in any event, the only BS7671-compliant cable they could be thinking of would be 0.75mm² flex.

Kind Regards, John
 
Would I be right in assuming it would be of no use and would two fused spurs be the only solution (one for each live feed)
Well if you really insist on making life awkward by having a fuse, put it in the live feed before the switch.

Shown here with a DP switch so that the fan is triggered by the light, but you could use a SP one for just the fan, or a DP with the fan N present to work a neon, if that's still a concern to you.

fanwiring7ib.jpg


The normal FCU will also provide all-pole isolation for the fan if you want.
 
If I remember correctly, your fan is a timer, but not to come on with the light.

If you recall my post on how to connect up, in your other post, you could put a 3 amp unswitched FCU just before the 16 amp double pole switch+neon.

Or you could put the 3 amp unswitched FCU to control the whole of the bathroom lighting, if this is easier to do.

Most people don't actually bother with the 3 amp FCU, if the bathroom is fed by a 5 or 6 amp fuse or breaker at the consumer unit.
 
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