6kw four ring hob (connection)

[JohnD]

An earth leak is when the insulation of the live conductors fails and current flows to earth (hopefully direct to the protective earth conductor). If you had a big earth leak (for example if you bang a nail into a cable or drop a toaster into the sink) then it will, unless very slight, blow the fuse.

Immersion heaters also sometimes leak slightly when they get old. This is one of the reasons why all the copper pipes are securely earthed, so that any current will flow straight to earth without giving risk of electric shock.

Slight leakage is also caused, for example, when the insulation in an oven heating element breaks down with age. In this case it is usually very slight and because the oven is securely earthed, not movable, and is not used outside the house or in the bathroom, it is not considered dangerous.

The RCD is a very sensitive device that cuts off the power from a very small earth leakage, before it gets big enough to cause a dangerous shock. It is important to use these with appliances that are likely yo be used outdoors (for example, sockets that might be used when mowing the lawn or hoovering the car) because you are outside the area protected by your house's earthing installation; or with electric shower (because of the danger of electricity and water).

I'm not sure if my description is clear, accurate and complete, perhaps someone will correct or add?

Edited: BTW - the reason why I suggested the 10Amp oven should be on a 13Amp fuse (not connected to the 32A Cooker Circuit) is so that the fuse is quite close to the normal current, so a fault will not need to be big to blow the fuse). Not that I think a fault is likely.

 

[BOBAFETT]

JohnD I've been getting a list of required parts for my Hob/Cooker connection together and one thing is puzzling me, You advised me to use a 13a fused connection unit but I have found that most cooker switches are 45a wich is a big difference. Please advise.

 

[Spark123]

What I think JohnD is saying is connect the Fused Spur Unit to the ring (socket) circuit to supply the oven and use the cooker circuit for the hob only.

 

[BOBAFETT]

Spark123 I understand that I will run the hob of the cooker circit and the oven off the ring circit. but why would I use a 13a fused connection unit and not a 45a cooker switch as the spur?

 

[JohnD]

JohnD I've been getting a list of required parts for my Hob/Cooker connection together and one thing is puzzling me, You advised me to use a 13a fused connection unit but I have found that most cooker switches are 45a wich is a big difference. Please advise.

I didn't mention an FCU! What I said was "If you have sockets handy, I would be inclined to connect the oven to the socket circuit"

You can use a plug and socket if you like, you can use an FCU if you prefer. You should have the switch above the worktop so you can easily switch the oven off if for example the turkey fat catches fire. If you like to use a plug and socket below the worktop, you can put a 20A DP switch above the worktop, in the socket ring, to feed it.

why would I use a 13a fused connection unit and not a 45a cooker switch as the spur.

As Spark123 says, Because the oven only takes about 10Amps and we are suggesting connecting it to the socket circuit, so it doesn't need a 45A switch.

The hob however does.