97 Ford Escort Front brakes overheating and drag...

[olly_k]

Hey folks, noticed a little bit of drag in my Escort a few weeks ago but it came and went a couple of times so didn't do anything about it..

Last couple of days the problem has got quite bad with the front wheel getting pretty warm, left still cool.

No pull to either side with when driving but obviously the right hand break sticking but maybe both sides if braking and driving in straight line?

Can anyone suggest any ideas before I run the car into the garage I could really do with saving a bit of money atm!

Thanks,

Olly.

 

[Stivino]

Take the wheel off and have a look first, the pads might be worn down on that side. If they're not too badly worn, or cooked, they can be re-used. The caliper will need to come off to be freed. Do you have any tools? 7mm allen key if I remember rightly.

 

[olly_k]

Thanks Stivino, yes I have tools. I will have a look after lunch and get back to you....

Olly.

 

[Peter.N.]

Could just be that the pistons are sticking, in which case lifting the rubber seal round the edge and injecting some brake fluid under it then working them in and out by alternately levering and then pressing the brake pedal should free them off.

 

[olly_k]

Hey folks just pulled pads out there is quite a bit of corrosion to main calliper. I also noticed the rubber seal isn't properly seated in the piston so I guess I found the problem!

I guess I need a repair kit or even a new calliper I can't be sure until I have pulled it all apart but don't want to do this till I get the kit at least!
will I be able to get one on a Saturday afternoon I wonder?

 

[Peter.N.]

If the weather is doing what it is here I wouldn't bother.

 

[Stivino]

Why not go to your local factors and get a new/re-con caliper?
http://www.carparts-direct.co.uk/brake_calipers_detail.cfm

 

[olly_k]

Great link Stivino. I priced up a replacement from motor factors today and it was 43+vat. I need to save as much as possible.

regards that link will the calliper be the same design as the one I am replacing? I know I have Bendix but haynes also suggests it could have been Teves. The list on the site has the letters BEN under brake system but not sure if this is related to the part - does this matter?

I am planning to strip tomorrow and try to effect a temporary repair until the unit arrives I think.

If anyone can check back tomorrow I might have some pics - any help appreciated!

Olly.

 

[Stivino]

BEN will be related to the part. The factor will know there are different makes of caliper on that model. That will be to let them know which one it is. I wouldn't rule out your local scrappy either, lots of cars are scrapped with brand new parts on them.

 

[chainsaw_masochist]

Moderators, moderators…ban Olly_K with immediate effect. Look what he is threatening to do:

I am planning to strip tomorrow and I might have some pics - any help appreciated!

Olly.

This forum continues to plumb the depths.

 

[olly_k]

Well luckily for you my camera battery flat

Moderators, moderators…ban Olly_K with immediate effect. Look what he is threatening to do:

I am planning to strip tomorrow and I might have some pics - any help appreciated!

Olly.

This forum continues to plumb the depths.

 

[olly_k]

ok I managed to get the calliper off today.

I couldn't move the piston in or out it seemed stuck solid (even using a clamp!) I also noticed the rubber (dust?) seal which is meant to extend with the piston had come out of the groove.
Managed to use a bicycle pump to remove piston. A bit of crap and gave it all a clean. piston went back in I could push it in with my hand now and tested with pump again and piston came out and held onto rubber seal this time.
All seemed much better - just drove to halfords and getting mixed results tbh. Seemed great for a while then brakes dragging again and smell of burning then free again arrhhhh!

Pads are definitely goosed I am sure but braking is still effective. Before I get a replacement calliper is there anything else this could be? Could the master cylinder be faulty but then surly the other side would be effected i.e. front wheel getting warm etc.. Maybe I haven't cleaned the piston effectively enough or the piston has warped due to heat?

I have read on the net that the flexible rubber hose can get serrated inside and act as a one way valve could this be adding to the issues at all?

I might pull apart one last time to see if the seal has miss aligned or if any other obvious signs but in all honesty it might end up cheaper sending the car to the garage?

Olly.

 

[olly_k]

Just another question when you release the brake pedal is there a certain amount of vacuum in the system that pulls the pads back off the disk or is there a spring that does this??

 

[Burnerman]

Olly, do you mind me butting in?
The pads are dragged away from the disc a fraction due to the distortion of the fluid seal inside the caliper. There is no other mechanical method.
Usually, if the flexible pipes are collapsing, it makes the brakes impossible to bleed - but it can occur when the piston is pushed back in too!
Your brakes are diagonally split - that means that the front left and rear right brake are linked, and vice versa.
If your caliper has the banjo type brake pipe connector, the next time it binds, see if it comes free when the banjo bolt is cracked open.
Personally, I think a replacement caliper would sort things for you.
Good luck, cheers John

 

[olly_k]

Thanks John so on undoing the banjo and the brakes release does this imply back pressure from something upstream i.e. collapsed pipe etc..? or is it still calliper problem? I will try this tomorrow!

Interesting you mention the distortion of seal - if the rubber is not that great (lost flexibility) could this be the reason they are not always retracting?

Think I will order a calliper tomorrow - at least if it isn't at fault and I end up going to a garage I won't be charged for this part unnecessarily!