a few questions!!

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Hi

if someone could give me some help with the following issues i would be gratefull please....

1) I am going to replace the light switches with dimmers. on removing the old face plates i saw the looping in was done at the switch. There is 3 live wires going in the top of the switch and a single live coming out (presume switched live to light fitting). The new dimers i have have 3 terminals on the back - L1, l2, and a one which looks like an 'arrow passing through an AC sine wave. Would this be the switched output?? Which terminal do i put the live conductors into, L1 or L2. The neutrals and earths look like they are connected in the back of the patress so its just the live conductors i need help with.

2) I want to change the old unswitched, knackered looking sockets with new ones, but the wires are not long enough as the old sockets had the terminals in different places and there is not enough slack to reach the terminals in the new sockets. What is the best way of extending the cables so they reach?? Solder? Crimp? Boot lace ferrules??

many thanks

:D
 
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If you are replacing the switches with standard dimmers, you can only replace one end of a two-way switch (if you have any). Put the common to the arrow terminal & the switchwire to either L1 or L2. With a normal rocker switch it would matter which terminal you connect the switchwire to, but with a dimmer or SP pullcord, it does not.

Buy sockets thst have terminals in the same places rather than extend.
 
Wire the 3 live wires into the ~ terminal and the single wire into L1.

Some dimmers have small terminals so you may want to group the 3 wires into a terminal block first.

I would use crimps to join your cables together. Tape them in self-binding insulating tape or heat shrink sleeving if you lilke.
 
securespark - why can i only change the one end of a 2 way swithch. would it be dangerous??

sparkyspike - thanks - i was thinging crimps and heat shrink tubing. what is self binding tape?? i have black insulation tape. would that be ok to use?? what sort of crimps could i use - the blue ones or is there special ones for mains voltages??

many thanks :D
 
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you can only change one end because otherwise the 2 dimmers would be working in series with each other when the light was on..

not so bad with purely resistive dimmers, but the electronic ones won't like it..

you CAN change both ends if you fit the kind that have a master and a slave unit.. the dimming is only done by the master unit with the slave unit acting as a kind of remote controll for the master..

self amalgamating tape is kind of soft rubber tape that "melts" into itself to form one solid piece rather than destinct layers that can be peeled off..
 
you can only change one end because otherwise the 2 dimmers would be working in series with each other when the light was on..

not so bad with purely resistive dimmers, but the electronic ones won't like it..

you CAN change both ends if you fit the kind that have a master and a slave unit.. the dimming is only done by the master unit with the slave unit acting as a kind of remote controll for the master..

self amalgamating tape is kind of soft rubber tape that "melts" into itself to form one solid piece rather than destinct layers that can be peeled off..

cheers mate :)

i am going to have a trip to CEF tomorow and get some of that tape and some crimps. and specific crimps i should get??

with regards to the dimmer switches, i will just it a normal switch on the upstairs switch.

many thanks :)
 
red through crimps for 1.0 - 1.5mm wires ( lights )
blue through crimps for 2.5mm wires ( sockets ring mains etc )

get heatshrink, will be more readily available and will be easier to fit.. and i think it will keep longer than SA tape ( doesn't SA tape go off? dry out? )

also use a proper ratchet crimper, not one of those multi tool crimper / strippers that are cold in car part stores.. they are only suitable for doing 12v auto electrics..
 
red through crimps for 1.0 - 1.5mm wires ( lights )
blue through crimps for 2.5mm wires ( sockets ring mains etc )

get heatshrink, will be more readily available and will be easier to fit.. and i think it will keep longer than SA tape ( doesn't SA tape go off? dry out? )

also use a proper ratchet crimper, not one of those multi tool crimper / strippers that are cold in car part stores.. they are only suitable for doing 12v auto electrics..

thanks mate - got one of those ratchet crimpers for doing stuff at work so thats ok. are the crimps available from somewhere like CEF? are they specially for mains voltages??

thankyou for all your help everyone :)
 
no difference between em as far as I know..
as long as it's the right size...

B&Q probably do them and the heatshrink too..

are you certain there's no slack you can pull up from under the floor / down the wall?
 
There is nothing special about the crimps, just normal pre-insulated thru-crimps, that any wholesaler should have, remember in 2.5 twin, the earth is only 1.5mm so you'll want blue for the live and neutral and red for earth in your sockets.

Apply with proper rachet crimper
 
Yes, thats what thru crimps are for, but is that the question you wanted to ask, if you are asking if you can put three wires in each, then the answer is no
 
Yes, thats what thru crimps are for, but is that the question you wanted to ask, if you are asking if you can put three wires in each, then the answer is no

not wanting to put 3 wires in each one, just 2 neutrals into one, 2 lives into one and 2 earth conductors into one so 3 crimps in total.
 
Yes, thats what thru crimps are for, but is that the question you wanted to ask, if you are asking if you can put three wires in each, then the answer is no

not wanting to put 3 wires in each one, just 2 neutrals into one, 2 lives into one and 2 earth conductors into one so 3 crimps in total.

nooo... 6 crimps... extend all 6 ends..

this really is basic..

if you use crimpers at work then why don't you know this?
 

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