A Lofty Question...

[advisewelcome]

I have a light switch going to one light bulb fitting already in the loft . I'd prefer two lights activated with that one switch.

I understand a new light fitting can either be daisy chained from the last light fixture or a new wire taken from the loft light switch box? Both of these options require sticking two wires into small a pendant light connections or the light switch box connections - which is not ideal and fiddly in a dark loft.

Is there a way I can take the wire from the light switch - split it into two and then connect it to different light fitting so I can have two lights?

Is it possible to do the below?- or does it HAVE to be daisy chained from the previous light or HAVE to be wired direct from the Switch box connection?

If its possible, what Connector will allow the live, neutral and earth to easily and cheaply be split off into two?

This - with the two wires coming out of it of one coming in?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/wago-24a-light-junction-box-39-x-95-x-29mm-grey/8423F

Or can I use something like this t-box?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/tower-3-way-20mm-tee-box-black/82706

And which wago connectors are best? 24a or less? Know the types I need to buy that are small and would fit into the above cases?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WAGO-221-2411-Terminal-Conductor-Connector/dp/B077QJ3G5B

Twisting the wires together is not not ideal and t-boxes with the connections built in are a pain to wire in the dark as well.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

one of these is all you need

Axiom Lighting Junction Box

A small and compact lighting junction box for neat and tidy installations. With a diameter of just 52mm and a depth of 25mm, this black enclosure is perfect for those jobs where space is tight.• 20A lighting junction box with 4 terminals• Small design for use in confined spaces• 52mm diameter...

www.toolstation.com

at the position where it says connector

 

[ETAF]

are you lighting up a different part of the loft or just getting more light up there - not as cheap , but a LED strip light , which i have replaced a bulb with , maybe a consideration
if you intend to just mount onto a beam , perhaps a 20A Junction box will do , if its accessable

20A 4-Terminal Junction Box White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Junction box with a urea-constructed outer casing. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

which is not ideal and fiddly in a dark loft.

Do you have a torch , perhaps an extension lead with an inspection light

 

[Adam_151]

I personally would not use the round phenolic plastic type joint boxes anymore, they have had their day ands theres better options

These are my go to most of the time: https://www.internet-electrical.co....-terminal-maintenance-free-junction-box-white

I'm not a massive fan of the wago boxes but they have their uses at times

I'd not do it the conduit tee box, you'd have to add strain relief to all the entires and then put wagos or blocks in it, it wouldn't have to be a tee box either, its to tee PVC conduit, if you were just bringing twins in through the entries (or better through stuffers fitted into adapaters glued into a very short bit of conduit, you coul get 3x1.5 through one entry

 

[flameport]

new wire taken from the loft light switch box? Both of these options require sticking two wires into small a pendant light connections or the light switch box connections

That would be the usual choice. Add another cable from the switch to the new light.

No real problem with it either, it just means 2 wires into the L switch terminal, 3 neutrals in a Wago connector or similar, and 3 protective conductors in another one.
No need for any extra boxes, just a couple of 3 way connectors to go in the switch box. You could even use those screw terminal strip connectors instead.

 

[advisewelcome]

one of these is all you need

Axiom Lighting Junction Box

A small and compact lighting junction box for neat and tidy installations. With a diameter of just 52mm and a depth of 25mm, this black enclosure is perfect for those jobs where space is tight.• 20A lighting junction box with 4 terminals• Small design for use in confined spaces• 52mm diameter...

www.toolstation.com

at the position where it says connector

Hiya, now you would think that, but I tried - one wire from the switch, one to the light 1 and the other to light 2 - but getting 3 stacks of neutral, brown and earth into three of those slots and the grub screw closed - ain't happening (unless that isn't what you are supposed to do)?

 

[advisewelcome]

are you lighting up a different part of the loft or just getting more light up there - not as cheap , but a LED strip light , which i have replaced a bulb with , maybe a consideration
if you intend to just mount onto a beam , perhaps a 20A Junction box will do , if its accessable

20A 4-Terminal Junction Box White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Junction box with a urea-constructed outer casing. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

Do you have a torch , perhaps an extension lead with an inspection light

Got this thing below. Its pricey and wondering if I should sacrifice it to a grubby loft project.

Assume I can use the wago connectors to get the switch wire in - and then cram the other two wires for live, neutral and earth into each respective wago connector. Snap the thing closed and hey presto? Assume I need to do earth as well if the light housing are all plastic?

 

[advisewelcome]

are you lighting up a different part of the loft or just getting more light up there - not as cheap , but a LED strip light , which i have replaced a bulb with , maybe a consideration
if you intend to just mount onto a beam , perhaps a 20A Junction box will do , if its accessable

20A 4-Terminal Junction Box White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Junction box with a urea-constructed outer casing. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

I bought this for light1 and think its the bigger lumens for its price.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/4lite-advantage-twin-4ft-led-ip20-batten-30w-3600lm-220-240v/939KK

But still think should wire up a light2 which can just be one of these:
https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-straight-ho-batten-lamp-holder-light-fitting-bc-3-/93835

Just didn't think I could run one wire from the switch and then split it - as that wire would be carrying the load for two lights (and that isn't the way ur supposed to do it?).

I could get it wired up outside of the loft and then just take it up. If I did that, how could I test it? - connect the wire into the switch with a plug and stick in the mains - would that be okay? - or are lighting circuits lower amp and I could blow the lights?

 

[Sureitsoff?]

There is no difference between splitting the cable from the switch to the first light and daisy chaining a second from the first

 

[scousespark]

Have a look at the junction boxes here https://www.quickwire.co.uk/

 

[ETAF]

but getting 3 stacks of neutral, brown and earth into three of those slots and the grub screw closed - ain't happening (unless that isn't what you are supposed to do)?

I have managed that - what size cable are you using , usually on older properties the existing wiring lighting is 1.5mm , BUT 1mm is fine for what you are doing
If you are using 2.5mm cable - then that mybe an issue , never used 2.5mm with a 20A connector - BUT they do make 30A for house power cable

30A 3-Terminal Heavy Duty Junction Box Black - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Junction box with a urea-constructed outer casing. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

HOWEVER ,as mentioned in earlier posts - WHY not just wire up from the switch , as posted by flameport ?

 

[advisewelcome]

There is no difference between splitting the cable from the switch to the first light and daisy chaining a second from the first

yes, no diff there - but running one wire from the switch and then splitting means that one wire is carrying the load for two lights into the split connector - but I assume its so low with LED lights it don't matter?

Edit - but then again when daisy chaining the first wire is carrying the load to 2 lights (so ignore this post).

Edit again - but then again but then again - daisy chaining from the 1st light depends on the connections on the first light - sometimes not easy to daisy chain in.

 

[advisewelcome]

I have managed that - what size cable are you using , usually on older properties the existing wiring lighting is 1.5mm , BUT 1mm is fine for what you are doing
If you are using 2.5mm cable - then that mybe an issue , never used 2.5mm with a 20A connector - BUT they do make 30A for house power cable

30A 3-Terminal Heavy Duty Junction Box Black - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Junction box with a urea-constructed outer casing. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

HOWEVER ,as mentioned in earlier posts - WHY not just wire up from the switch , as posted by flameport ?

Cause then there are three wires to accomodate into the switch and its cram to get the box closed without something moving inside and a right royal pain to get three copper wires to connect into each earth, neutral, live connection of the switch box - let alone try and closing it after.

 

[advisewelcome]

I could get it wired up outside of the loft and then just take it up. If I did that, how could I test it? - connect the wire into the switch with a plug and stick in the mains - would that be okay? - or are lighting circuits lower amp and I could blow the lights?

makes senese to wire it up outside of the loft. also these batten lights are a pain to fix and get the clips straight, so plan is to stick it onto a wood peice and then just screw that wood onto the loft beam when in the loft.

Any easy way of testing the lighting rig prior to going back into the loft? Can I plug it into the mains plug or do I have to use a lighting connection to test it?

 

[Ragnar_AT]

A lighting circuit should be protected by a 6 A or 10 A MCB or a 5 A fuse. The cables used for lighting circuits are good for much more than that (17 A if 1 mm2 if I remember correctly).

Why do you think one cable shouldn‘t supply two lights then? The fuse or MCB limit the current long before the cable gets overloaded and that‘s why they‘re there.