A switch to power a Bathroom TV off - help needed

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Firstly, I'll start by saying that I have no electrical skills apart from basic changing a socket skills...

I have a small bathroom that I've decided to put a waterproof TV in. The TV is going to go in the centre of a stud frame attached to a brick wall. The wall has been boarded and will eventually be tiled. This is at the end of the bathroom, opposite the bath and sink with the wires already having been embedded behind the boarded stud frame.

The plan is to put the power adaptor for the TV in the loft above, running from a power outlet that I had wired up there, as I wanted to have the ability to switch the power to the TV on and off, so that the TV isn't left constantly receiving power fed into it (to avoid the possibly of heating it up and being damaged after a few years). I'm planning to put some kind of switch to the right of the TV, that would allow me to do this. My brother reckons this would be ok and so under his instruction, I've placed 2 2.5 T&E cables running behind the stud frame, that reach between where we intend to put the switch and the power socket in the loft. The plan is to insert the extra link of a switched fused spur (3A) between the loft power outlet to the TV power adaptor and place this switched fused spur in the bathroom, inserted flush in the tile wall.

As far as I can see by the diagrams I've looked at, the TV is going to be in the Outside Zone (not zones, 0, 1 or 2) so I could probably use a normal (non IP rated) switch but I would ideally like to use a waterproof switch, to prevent any chance of anyone with wet hands getting more than they bargained for when all they want to watch is Corrie!

I've considered using a PIR but didn't want to go this route as my Mrs will use the bath and possibly not move much whilst watching TV, so I don't want her to splash about to get the thing to come back on again. I've looked around on the net and the only waterproof switches I've see are for external use and look quite tough... I'd be happy with a small switch if possible. I've seen options like these:

A sensor switch that sits behind a wall and you just hold your hand near the tile to switch on or off - looked a bit pricey but I don't know what I'd need to incorporate this: http://www.sensor.co.uk/switches/bathroom_switch/

The Aquadesign and System Design IP 44 switches by Merten that are waterproof light switches - I can't see them anywhere to actually buy: http://www.iskraft.is/Uploads/document/baeklingar/Innlagnaefni/MERTEN_Aqua_.pdf

The Clipsal switch - again, can't see this to buy anywhere apart from in Australia: https://www.clipsal.com/Home-Owner/Products/Safety/Waterproof-Switches

The questions I have are:
Is the use of a switched fused spur safe to do like this?
Do I need (is it best) to use a switched fuse spur or is there some other way to go about this?
Would a simple cover to go over a normal switch suffice, such as this: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bathroom-Switch-Protector-Plastic-Waterproof/dp/B007VCTMS6?

To give a clearer idea of the environment, I've attached a photo so you can see where this is currently up to...

View media item 86558
The tile wall will be finished in the same red tiles that are at the bottom and as there is white in the room, I'd like the switch to be discreet if possible to fit the room as it stands i.e. no industrial grey external switches.

Any suggestions, answers, etc will be gratefully received. Please feel free to ask me anything else if what I've written isn't clear.

Thanks in advance.

Del
 
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If the isolator for the TV is outside the bathroom zones and environmental conditions offer no ingress risk, then a standard accessory would be fine.
A switched FCU would be ideal for this.
The alternative would have been to put the isolator on wall outside the bathroom.
 
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You do realize that your gas bill will increase as the amount of hot water used to top up the bath temperature will increase significantly due to prolonged time spent in the bath.
 
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If the isolator for the TV is outside the bathroom zones and environmental conditions offer no ingress risk, then a standard accessory would be fine.
A switched FCU would be ideal for this.
The alternative would have been to put the isolator on wall outside the bathroom.

Thanks for that. I reckon the FCU would only get slightly steamed up but definitely isn't within a zone. I really do want to make it even a little more protected than just a switch though. Also, my Mrs didn't like the idea of basically a light switch (the size of it being the problem) on that wall so I was hoping for a smaller option if possible.

Also, I didn't really want to put the tv switch outside the room although there is currently a light switch out there.
 
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You do realize that your gas bill will increase as the amount of hot water used to top up the bath temperature will increase significantly due to prolonged time spent in the bath.

Yup! But it's a small trade-off for being able to live without being forced to watch Coronation Street or Eastenders in another room that I'm in. The agreement (in my mind) is that she can watch that chaff in there and take her time!
 
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In that case, a switch outside the bathroom, so you can turn the telly off when you want (her to bring you) a cuppa.
 
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if you're wiring the tv to a plug/socket in the loft, you could either:

a) use one of those remote control sockets which allow you to turn devices on/off via remote. i.e. http://www.thegreenage.co.uk/energy-saving-shop/remote-controlled-socket-x3/

b) use a plug in timer switch to isolate power at certain times of the day (overnight, early mornings etc) when you wont be using the tv. http://www.abilityanswers.com/timer-switch-pack-of-2-p-1855.html

or, you could use a proximity switch like those that are used in bathroom mirrors

e.g. http://www.astra247.com/9206/Leyton/Infra-Red-Mini-Small-Sensor-Switch-LLSENS/

cheap, small, easy to install. just wave your hand and power on/off the tv. they are designed to switch 240v.
 
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if you're wiring the tv to a plug/socket in the loft, you could either:

a) use one of those remote control sockets which allow you to turn devices on/off via remote. i.e. http://www.thegreenage.co.uk/energy-saving-shop/remote-controlled-socket-x3/

b) use a plug in timer switch to isolate power at certain times of the day (overnight, early mornings etc) when you wont be using the tv. http://www.abilityanswers.com/timer-switch-pack-of-2-p-1855.html

or, you could use a proximity switch like those that are used in bathroom mirrors

e.g. http://www.astra247.com/9206/Leyton/Infra-Red-Mini-Small-Sensor-Switch-LLSENS/

cheap, small, easy to install. just wave your hand and power on/off the tv. they are designed to switch 240v.

Thanks - these are definitely more like what I was after. I never thought of the simple timer plug adaptor... it's simple, cheap and would work.
 
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I'm hoping to go with the infra red proximity switch but is there anything else I need to consider with that? I've run a couple of 2.5 T&E cables behind the frame (behind the board in the photo) and these were going to be spurred (hope that's the right terminology) off the socket upstairs in the loft to connect the FCU but if I use the proximity switch, how will this need to be wired?
 
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Ok, so I just bought the Infra Red Switch and I'll let you all know how it goes but any pointers before I install will be great.
 
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i've never installed one but i have them in a couple of bathroom mirrors so i've seen them in action.
should be easy to install
 
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Just put your washing basket next to the bath. Place I pad on top and watch....

Subscription to netflix, sky go, babestation...

Jobs a goodun
 
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Now, for me, that's an option but with my missus being accident prone... It just isn't the one! A permanent solution with no moving parts is the way I have to do things in my house.
 

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