Adding a 13amp oven into kitchen ring

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I have a kitchen with the following:
- Washing Machine
- Dishwasher
- Kettle
- Microwave

It's on a 32amp breaker ( with RCD protection) and 2.5mm T&E cable as a Ring Final.

I want to install a 13amp oven and wanted to get your view on whether this should be okay. It will be a pain to put in a new circuit!

I have done some rough amp calculations on the above but know that things are more complicated in the kitchen as not everything will be running at the same time and the current that these appliance draw can fluctuate based on their cycle of operation.

Thanks in advance.
 
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I have a kitchen with the following:
- Washing Machine
- Dishwasher
- Kettle
- Microwave

It's on a 32amp breaker ( with RCD protection) and 2.5mm T&E cable as a Ring Final.

I want to install a 13amp oven and wanted to get your view on whether this should be okay. It will be a pain to put in a new circuit!

I have done some rough amp calculations on the above but know that things are more complicated in the kitchen as not everything will be running at the same time and the current that these appliance draw can fluctuate based on their cycle of operation.

Thanks in advance.
You should have considered this when you did the rewire.
 
I see no real problem as long as the washing machine is just a washing machine, however a washer/drier uses high power for an extended time, so could cause problems.

We know what the book says
The load current in any part of the circuit should be unlikely to exceed for long periods the current-carrying capacity of the cable (Regulation 433.1.5 refers). This can generally be achieved by:
(i) locating socket-outlets to provide reasonable sharing of the load around the ring
(ii) not supplying immersion heaters, comprehensive electric space heating or loads of a similar profile frog the ring circuit
(iii) connecting cookers, ovens and hobs with a rated power exceeding 2 kW on their own dedicated radial circuit
(iv) taking account of the total floor area being served. (Historically, limit of 100 m² has been adopted.)
But some times we need to use some common sense, however this includes what will likely change in the future, swapping from gas or solid fuel to electric you clearly did not consider when doing the wiring, so swapping from a washing machine to washer/drier is also possible.

Clearly the washing machine, dishwasher, and oven should be on dedicated circuits, but we also consider what is the result of an overload, mothers house it was two steps to the sub-main CU and turn it back on, this house it is go outside down a set of steps and into flat under main house to reset, and my last house it was into the garage. So mothers house no big deal if it tripped, other two need to don outside cloths and shoes to reset.
 
Thanks for your response.
For clarity, I haven't wired this circuit. It's how I find it and hence the question. The kitchen is on a submain (situated next to the CU) which is under the stairs. As you say, a short walk to the CU if it does trip. This submain doesn't have any spare ways and would need to be upgraded, even if I wanted to put a new oven circuit in.
 
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A thought: since I am pulling down the kitchen ceiling as part of the refit, I will put a new cable into the wall (behind board and tiles) and through the ceiling (sat in the ceiling void above the living room) enroute to CU. If there is any tripping when I add the Oven to the existing ring, I can take this cable on to the consumer unit and wire into a new circuit. No damage will be required in kitchen.

I was going to terminate this cable into wagos inside a blanking plate near the oven and tape up the other ends and situate somewhere in my living room loft void. This is accessible from the kitchen ceiling and enroute to the CU.

What size cable do you suggest for this? My current oven is 13amp which means a 2.5mm radial is adequate but weren’t sure if I should be future proofing.
 
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I would really appreciate your thoughts on future proofing and the advisable cable size. Thanks again.
 
Well, for a 13A oven, 1mm² (method C) would be adequate.

If you think in the future you might require a 32A cooker circuit then you will require 4mm² - but 'everyone' still uses 6mm².
 
New circuit means replacing Rcd to A type if existing is AC type...Will need a certificate also, just get a sparky in
 
Yes afraid so, any addition or new circuit needs a Type A Rcd unless you can prove that anything used on that circuit does not have any internal electronic circuitry.....A real ballache having to explain that to a client who had a new CU fitted last march with AC rcd's and now wants two extra sockets in lounge and has to have rcd replaced
 
Yes afraid so, any addition or new circuit needs a Type A Rcd unless you can prove that anything used on that circuit does not have any internal electronic circuitry.....A real ballache having to explain that to a client who had a new CU fitted last march with AC rcd's and now wants two extra sockets in lounge and has to have rcd replaced

I think we need to be more pragmetic about this than ripping out almost brand new type AC rcds just because an extra socket is required. Yes, there is new a requirement that RCDs are a minimum of type A unless load is strictly resistive, so of course any new ones we fit should be type A. However where the type AC RCD is existing and you are just adding an extra socket its more of a grey area, the issue with compliance is with the existing arrangements, and while yes, there is a a requirement to make sure that what is existing can be extended without compromising the safety of the new work, you have to ask yourself if that is an issue in this situation when maybe they are not adding any extra loads, they just want extra sockets to get rid of the extension leads running all over the place.

Its worth remembering, that while DC-loking of RCDs is plausable (theres a patent out there that covers a circiit that does that, which was incorpated into a particular brand of loop testers - and its dated over 30 years ago, this isn't a newly discovered effect) and it can be replicated on a bench, the chance of a fault occuring which causes this is probably not too likely, it can certainly happen, but I would expect a low impedance N-E fault close to the RCD, as well as RCDs which themselves just die and fail to operate to me much more common causes from RCDS which failed to trip than a type AC where it should have been a type A.

Maybe we should do a quick mental risk assessment of what loads are being added vs. what is the outcome of the RCD being in/op (obviously loosing additional protection for an outdoor socket, is worse than loosing additional protection to a surface clipped domestic lighting circuit). Of course we should also extend that to cirucits which don't actually require RCD protection, but end up on one anyway because its a dual split board, the airconditioner cirucit in SWA for instance, doesn't need RCD protection, so I'm sure a theres quite a few who woulnd't even worry about the type AC RCD ("Doesn't need RCD anyway mate, so that type AC is fine 'cos its it don't actually need nuth'ing) when that RCD also protects the downstairs sockets and the aircon will have a larger VSD than anything else you could forseeably install in a domestic installation.

The way things are going, the average consumer unit will have a lifespan of less than the average kitchen, I expect we will be ripping out a load of boards again when the 19th edition gets here as many of the makes won't have AFDDs available for the older ranges and they'll be required on a lot of the circuits.
 
Totally agree with above statement but there is no grey area, Addition or new circuit requires type A rcd as discussed in a Napit webinar and also confirmed on the Technical Helpline, Unless you can prove that it will not be used for anything with electronic circuitry, So we either work to the regs or we dont.
 
I don't believe Napit write the regulations, or has that changed while I was not looking?
 
Oh here we go another Winston.........The webinar was discussing the NEW regs and what exactly they mean ok....HAPPY NOW?
 

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