Adding a new one-way light to a two-way switch

Just to give the 'connect into the existing lighting circuit' one last try (it would save me going out to buy an FCU and would just be neater), here are some photos of what's what:

This is the Other End (in the house) of the 2-way switch. It's a double switch, with two 2-way lights, hence the MASS of cables stuffed in there. ALL the cables going in to the switch are either brown, white, grey or black, and ALL the blue cables are connected together, as you can just about see in the red square. However, the cables to the garage go through two junction boxes outside, so it's possible (but stupid) that there's a colour change somewhere between here and there. The whole thing was only installed last year, so hopefully it's all up to code:
otherEnd.jpg


This is the garage end. This morning I changed the single, 2-way switch for a double 2-way switch, before the "duh" moment when I realised that I somehow needed to get some power in there for the new garage light (which would be controlled, obviously, by this double switch). You can clearly see the mystery blue wire, and the bit I've stripped off the end for testing. My theory was that I could just bridge across from the Common (is that always live?) to the 2nd switch's Common, then take a wire from the 2nd switch's L1 (or L2 - shouldn't matter) to the new light (this would be the switched live) and extend the blue wire to the light (as the neutral):
switchingarage.jpg

But you can also see that there's a mains socket right next to the switch, so taking a spur off that and, as suggested, using a switch FCU as a lightswitch, would not be much effort.
 
Check the junction boxes I guess. I fear though in the JB you will find some 3C+E (Brown, Grey, Black) joined to two piece of T+E (Blue/Brown) with one Blue not connected to anything - this is your extra blue.

Might not be though

And it appears ok from what we can see, besides the fact he's got the earths floating in a connector block in both switch boxes and not in the earth terminal (only really an issue in the metal box, but if a plastic box has one, why not use it?)
 
Looks like they used 2 x twin&earth as the strappers for the 2-way switch rather than 3C+E, which is why there's a spare core there.

If you can find the other end of it, and connect it to neutral, you'll be able to use it.


My theory was that I could just bridge across from the Common (is that always live?)
No.

But L1 or L2 will be.


(or L2 - shouldn't matter)
It will if you are worried about whether the switch is up for off & down for on.
 
I fear that Iggifer is probably right, that two 2-core+earth cables have been used for switching, rather than a 3-core+earth cable, and the at one of the blues is unused, not connected to anything at either end. If that were the case, there would be another 'not connected' blue somewhere, either at the house switch or, as Iggifer suggested, at some intervening junction box. If you could find that, and if there wre a neutral anywhere nearby, you might be able to connect the unused blue to neutral, which might take you back to Plan A.

Particularly given the close proximity of the socket, I would think that you should be seriously considering 'Plan B'.

Kind Regards, John
 
One more question: Would the potential difference between a neutral (what I'm hoping the mystery blue wire is) and earth be zero volts? Shouldn't there be some voltage there? Because it IS zero.

There is no continuity between the blue wire and the earth wires.
 
One more question: Would the potential difference between a neutral (what I'm hoping the mystery blue wire is) and earth be zero volts? Shouldn't there be some voltage there? Because it IS zero.
It could be zero, but there could be a small PD.
There is no continuity between the blue wire and the earth wires.
OK, so it's not connected to earth. As has been said, I strongly suspect that if you could find the other end of that blue, you would find that it is not connected to anything. As has also been said, if there happens to be a neutral available near that 'other disconnected end' (e.g. if it is at a junction box), you could probably turn it into a neutral.

Kind Regards, John
 
Well, I just went ahead and connected L1 and the mystery blue wire to my light fitting and...nothing. After I'd connected it, there was about 240V between the blue wire and earth, but 0 volts between the blue wire and L1, so I'm guessing that both L1 and the blue wire are both live and neither is neutral. Which is why my light did not illuminate.

So, on with plan B - get an FCU!

Thanks for all your help, everyone!
 
Well, I just went ahead and connected L1 and the mystery blue wire to my light fitting and...nothing. After I'd connected it, there was about 240V between the blue wire and earth, but 0 volts between the blue wire and L1, so I'm guessing that both L1 and the blue wire are both live and neither is neutral. Which is why my light did not illuminate.
No, it is consistent with the blue not being connected to anything at the other end. You measure 240V between it and earth (and 0V between it and L1) because that 240V is coming through the (unlit) lamp. Some comments about 'trial and error' may well follow.

Kind Regards, John
 

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