Adding a new ring for Kitchen Appliances

[DaveEJ20]

Good morning,

I would like to add a new ring to run most of my kitchen appliances on one wall of the kitchen, this is straight forward enough (its a fridge, dishwasher and washing machine) but do I have to have isolation switches above the worktop for each appliance?

kind regards

Dave

 

[Steve]

Why not, if your going to the expense of having a new ring put in, do it properly.

And yes, it is a regulation that your applinces have an accessible switch. Easily done by having DP switches on the ring, feeding the sockets ehind the appliances.

 

[DaveEJ20]

Is Ring the right word?

Its a new feed with its own RCB from the Consumer unit.

You are saying each device needs to be able to be isolated?

thanks for the reply

Dave

 

[Steve]

A ring main is a circuit of sockets (or other accessories) where the live and neutral (and earth) leave the consumer unit, loop into every socket, then return to the consumer unit (in the same MCB/fuse).

If it is more convenient for you, you could do a 20 amp radial in 2.5mm cable, or a 32 amp radial in 4.0mm cable.

A radial is a ciruit of sockets that finishes at the furthest socket. Some electricians prefer them, saying ring mains are old fashioned and hard to test.

You'll feed the circuit from an MCB, rated as above. If there are NO accessible sockets, you ma feed it from the non-RCD side (RCDs dont like fridges/freezers/dodgy heating elements and you dont want your freezer defrosting if the RCD trips) But any accessible sockets that could reasonable be used to provide power outdoors must be RCD protected.

And you'll have to notify building control about this work.

 

[DaveEJ20]

I'm not doing the work but like to understand as much as possible so I know what i am being told / understand it.

My question is do i have to have DP switches visable above my work top, asthetically i'd prefer not to, as its only 3 sockets can i not just switch off the breaker when i need to stop the power or does EACH device need to be isoloated?

thanks for your info Steve

KR

Dave

 

[DaveEJ20]

Having a good scout around this site and finding loads of information i can see that the regs state that if i rewire it i will need loads of DP swithes / FCUs all along my work top for every appliance, this, in our rather small kitchen will make it look clutered and ruin the look of the tiling, i am tempted to just use the existing sockets, not change anything and just plug in the new appliances!

Dave

 

[bernardgreen]

Dave

The accessible switch can be very necessary if you have to turn off a mal functioning appliance that cannot be moved and the socket is behind the appliance.

 

[DaveEJ20]

But aren't 90% of the kitchens out there like that?

I get the theory its obviously a good idea to be able to isolate the appliance its the "readily available" bit which causes the problem!

Dave

 

[rjb]

Just gone through the Electrician's guide to building regs and states:

5.2.2 p56
vii) Socket-outlets supplying appliances pushed under a work surface eg dishwashers, tumble driers and fridges should be accessible when the appliance is pulled out.
viii) Appliances built into kitchen furniture (integrated appliances) should be connected to a socket outlet or fused connection unit that is readily accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use or supplied from a scoket outlet or other connecting device controlled by a ready accessible double pole switch or switched fused connection unit.

In other words you would be OK with plugs behind your appliances that are free-standing.

Of course if you upgraded later for built-in appliances then you would have to change the wiring. Electricians will try to make an installation future proof so will prefer to put DP switches so all combinations are covered which does make good sense.

In reality though you can keep your tiles you are so proud of!!.

Remember rules are for the obedience of the foolish and the guidance of the wise.