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Adjusting blade alignment on a performance FMTC1500TK table saw

Discussion in 'Tools and Materials' started by diyeric, 12 Aug 2020.

  1. diyeric

    diyeric

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    I know its a low end tool ex B&Q and blade supplied already installed was a bit out of alignment but it served me well for my needs in the past.

    I have replaced the blade with a finer blade and would like to calibrate the blade for the finer work but i can find no means of adjusting which is probably why the handbook makes no mention of this.

    The motor and blade assembly is fitted to a mating plate with for bolts and the only way I can think of to adjust the alignment of the blade is by putting shim washers on 2 of same side bolts so that the motor is tipped a little, but it would leave a gap in the mounting plates.

    I have loosened the bolts holding the table top to see if that will skew round a bit but without success.

    Has any one had experience of these table saws.

    Thanks Eric
     
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  3. big-all

    big-all

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    you must replace the machine blade with one off the same kerf to match the riving knive
    so not sure what you are trying to do :D
     
  4. diyeric

    diyeric

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    The old blade appears to be slightly thicker than the riving knife, the new blade about the same thickness.

    I want to align the new blade so that it is parallel to the groves in the table, but there is no obvious adjustment method.

    Nothing is mentioned in the handbook about alignment of blade to run parallel, but i understand it is common practice and essential.
     
  5. big-all

    big-all

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    do you mean the patterned grooves or working grooves on the table or the groove the blade comes out ??
     
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  7. diyeric

    diyeric

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    Sorry if I am causing confusion by not knowing technical terms, there are 2 groves or slots in the table top, one each side of the blade that the mitre guide runs in and the fence seems to be aligned to, and can be used to guide sledges,no riving knife?. The blade is not running parallel to these guides. There is about 1/8 inch difference from front to back of blade. My belief is there is no official means of adjusting the blade to make it parallel and DIY means must be resorted to.
     
  8. big-all

    big-all

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    no you wont get an adjustment as the blades exact position to the motor depth and bevel mechanism is by design
    you need the riving knife in that design to hold the blade guard and stop kickback
    as i now think your asking if any one has managed to engineer out this this problem thats a different story so will wish you luck but suspect a new saw is required
     
  9. diyeric

    diyeric

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    To find a solution I visited other sites and the worst remark for this saw and indeed other products from the P range was on quality. I will not repeat the comments here.

    Being bit of a hoarder I decide to take the saw apart to see if anything was worth saving. I removed the legs and turned the saw over on a bench. It became obvious the motor mounting bracket was made from a substantial casting, this is mounted on less substantial bent metal forming the rise and fall and bevel mechanism, all mounted on an even less substantial tin box casing. This casing was out of square, with one side longer than the other. This was not caused by bad bending but by not being pulled in tightly before riveting. I have replaced the rivets with nuts, bolts and star washers. The result was I had a casing with equal sides out of parallel.
    I then adjusted the brackets under the table top so that all was square, and on re-tightening the bolts that fix the top to the casing it forced the casing to become square.

    I then turned my attention to the bottom of the casing, I remove the plastic feet and replaced them with four metal corner plates. This squared up the casing completely.

    On turning the saw over and raising the blade it was immediately obvious the blade was parallel. There is by measurement a tiny bit of run out but its good enough for me, and it now cuts melamine board without chipping.

    For me, problem solved. On the question of riving knives, the original one fitted is thinner than the original blade, and slightly thinner than the new blade. I have not touched the setting of the knife and it aligns with the right hand side of the blade.

    Before anyone throws their hands up in the air in horror or quotes health and safety I am now thinking of building one of the many patterns of sledges available on the net, most patterns seem to be from America but one or two are being used in UK workshops. Your views would be appreciated,

    Thanks to "big all" for taking an interest.

    eric
     
  10. big-all

    big-all

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    glad you got it sorted and well done for taking the time
    it is the sort off trouble i will go to but have never tried a large heavy motor as the consequences of coming loose could be quite dire rather than annoying for being out off true
    as an aside about 20 years ago i had an old ryobi saw that looks like that but was so loud and sounded like a tractor :eek:
     
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