Advice on flooring in damp kitchen

Joined
13 Apr 2021
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Country
United Kingdom
Hello,
First post here and just wanted some advice on whether this is suitable for my kitchen. Builder in at the moment as we'd got damp/rot due to a historic leak. We live in a generally damp area and the kitchen is worst affected bit. It's all out now and they've started laying floor prior to new kitchen going in. The plan was:

* New joists where needed
* p5 caber chipboard flooring
* No More Play layer
* Engineered stone tiles

The cavity under the floor is large (about 2 foot deep) and there is ventilation (from air bricks). (Though, like I said, we're in a damp area).

My husband saw the caberboard going in and freaked out as he'd heard bad things about chipboard. He then sent me links to several threads on here where people say things like chipboard will disintegrate when it gets wet.

Would you recommend any modifications to the builders current plan. Such as replacing No More Ply with marine ply (or similar). I'd rather have something sturdy and long lasting for my new kitchen! (We've also asked the builder for his opinion, now extent of damp problem is know, and he's going to talk through in the morning... but would like to go into the chat prepared, as this is not my area of expertise).

Sixty x
 
Sponsored Links
Has the leak been mended? Are you sure? Have you got a water meter? How old is the house? Have the drains been mended as well as the waterpipe?

How many airbricks ventilate the viud, and how many sides of the room are they on?
 
We believe the rot/damp is from a leak 6 years ago where the room above leaked while we were on holiday. Room was completely flooded for probably several days. Think it might have got under units and not dried out properly. The room is gutted and can clearly see all pipes and they’re all sound. There’s no evidence of water ingress through brickwork. We don’t have a water meter.

The room is 3m x 1.5m and has four air bricks on 2.5 sides (the room extend out the back of the house slightly).
 
My husband saw the caberboard going in and freaked out as he'd heard bad things about chipboard. He then sent me links to several threads on here where people say things like chipboard will disintegrate when it gets wet.
As a carpenter I have first hand experience of both Egger P5 and Caber P5. They do not disintegrate if they get wet (P5 grade is moisture resistant). In fact I well remember one job where due to unresolved roofing defects we had parts of the P5 chipboard floors permanently wet over a winter and we didn't replace a single board (and that was several thousand square feet of the stuff which was soaked, dried and soaked again from October until March. We didn't need to replace any of it when it all dried out, although one or two joints did need filling where they opened a wee bit. Older, standard (I.e. non-moisture resistant) chipboard could end up like soggy Wheetabix if constantly dried and soaked,but you rarely see that used in flooring these days.

As to No More Ply (backer board), it is actually a fibre cement board and is therefore a better insulation and moisture proofing than any plywood (expensive), marine other
 
Sponsored Links
How big an area? I'd be more concerned about putting stone over timber in an area with widely varying humidity. You can't change physics and timber will expand and contract with humidity change. IMHO you can get away with stone/ceramics over timber if it is a small area and/or temp/humidity are fairly constant, but I always think it is a bit chancy putting ceramics over suspended floors in high traffic areas. Also, discuss decoupling membrane with your tile/floor fitter.
 
Thanks Mr Rusty. It’s a very small kitchen. 3m x 1.5m.
Builder is having a chat with us this morning. I just want to make sure we don’t build the new kitchen on silly flooring. Will mention what you said about membrane.
 
3 x 1.5 - I think you'll be fine - too small to worry about - you won't need decoupling for that small area.
 
Spoke to Mr Builder and he thinks the only other source of damp is one air brick which potentially sees water ingress during heavy rain - the old concrete drive isn't 100% even and he thinks maybe water pools there during heavy rain, and showed me where he can see damp around that air brick. His suggestion is to run a channel to the drain to handle water ingress (as a lower cost alterative to resurfacing the whole damn drive - which might be a longer term plan).

He said on thinking about it he is also recommending ditra mat as a substrate for my tiles - as this will prevent cracks longer term if we get any flex at all. He's basing this recommendation on the location/size of the beams. Though No More Ply is another option - his personal recommendation for long term sound base for the floor is Ditra mat. Does that sound reasonable?

Thank you so much for advice given so far.
 
Ditra mat is decoupling membrane. If he thinks it is worth doing, then I would follow his advice - he's there and can see the job, we can't :)
 
Thanks Mr Rusty. I'm going to do that. His explanation seemed reasonable and like you say he's actually see the physical space. Given my comparative level of ignorance I just wanted a sounding board to make sure there were no alarm bells ringing for anyone else. I'm having a lovely kitchen put in, so I want it built on a floor that is going to last more than a few years. Thank you again for responding. :)
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top