Advice on new oven installation RE amps/fuse rating

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We currently have a single integrated oven and a separate induction hob. Each has its own red switch on the kitchen wall.

The consumer unit has 2 "cooker" parts both labelled as B32.

We are hoping to get a larger freestanding electric range style cooker with its own induction hob. The one we have been looking at has an "electrical connection" of 15400 watts, and a "fuse rating" of 43 amps.

Would we therefore need any additional work carrying out rather than a simple installation by the electrician such as new wiring etc?
 

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However -

No you don't need additional work, your new appliance could be run on one of the circuits; you did not need two in the first place.

It may work out to 64A adding all the elements but for cooking appliances we use what we call diversity because even if all switched on the elements cycle on and of all the time - more off that on.

The formula is the first 10A plus 30% of the remainder so 54 x 0.3 = 16.25 + 10 = 26.25A plus 5 if there is a socket on the switch so 32A is fine.
 
Many thanks for reply!

Picture for interest...
 

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15,400W at what voltage I can hear us all thinking.
I think something has been missed in the translation 43A does seem to be a strange figure for a fuse rating.
I suppose a manufacturer could make there own diversity calculation that deviates from our own tried and tested approximation if they see fit to do so. But it does seem unlikely though
 
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I suspect it may possibly be this Smeg.
They could be doing their own diversity, as it is a double oven with built-in induction hob?
Screenshot_20231025-092913_Adobe Acrobat.jpg


 

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My own cooker says
1698225060660.png
and it has been on a B32 MCB then RCBO for years, and it has never tripped, the instructions say at least a 32 amp supply, and it has been ample. One can use more power than built in ovens do, as it has closed door grilling where the fan runs as well as the grill being on so it cooks under the food as well as on top. And food only needs turning once. It can also use a boost feature on two rings at a time, and so one ring can use 3.7 kW however in real terms only good for boiling water any thing else it would burn, so in the main one only uses about 750 watt per ring with induction.

Look at it this way, an induction hob does not heat the room, only the food, so it uses less energy, so why would it need more energy from the supply to a resistive hob, simple answer is it doesn't, it uses a lot less, so it does not need a large supply. And since not using a fuse, worst case scenario is the MCB/RCBO trips.

My concern in your case would be lack of RCD protection, didn't think anyone today had consumer units without RCD protection.
 
My concern in your case would be lack of RCD protection, didn't think anyone today had consumer units without RCD protection.
Well actually there are quite a few even today Eric but yes you would normally expect RCDs in most homes by now.

Quite a while back now, I did an EICR (OK it was called a PIR back then) . It was a house I`d rewired about 10 years earlier and (unusually) they wanted the I & T as advised in the original EIC and I defected a few items. They couldn`t understand why, even though I explained it was purely down to regs changes in the interval and they did not need to upgrade but I had to advise on prevailing regs at the time of test.
They saw it as me condemning my own work. LOL
 
Yes it is the Smeg as described above! Is the consensus still that the current set up would be sufficient? Or would it require a higher amp breaker like this one …



Looks like there’s RCD but only lights?
 

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