Air lock i think

When our boiler was renewed and repositioned in the loft we found the top up pipe was blocked.
The solution was to cut the pipe and fit a penny valve in order to attach a hand operated air pump to release the blockage.
The F&E tank is about two metres and 4 elbows away from the valve.
It was completely blocked as almost nothing came out when the pipe was cut.

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Little update, this morning before work i opened the bleed valves on the 2 furthest radiators downstairs both had lots of air in them and then suddenly lots of gurgling noises and water started flowing into the rads, both then had steady streams of water coming out of the bleed valves. I had to rush to work so will check other rads and header tank tonight.
 
That may be because your upstairs rads have slowely filled overnight but there could still be a substantial blockage of the cold water make up, I would still suggest back flushing as I suggested in post #15, might clear it completely.
 
That may be because your upstairs rads have slowely filled overnight but there could still be a substantial blockage of the cold water make up, I would still suggest back flushing as I suggested in post #15, might clear it completely.
Yes im going to do that again tonight after work (hopefully ) i can empty the header tank and make sure any excess sludge at the bottom is cleared before i put more water into it.
 
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Before you start … it may be helpful to know if, by then, all the radiators are full upstairs.
 
ok got home bled another downstairs rad and air came out again and gurgling / water running, it filled and then produced water out of bleed valve, been up in loft to F&E tank it was down below intake so ive got all the remaining water out and sludge / rust / gunk and cleaned it all up, tank is empty and dry now, so question is what should i do next, should i let it fill back up and check all rads & heating is working and then if so drain down and add cleaner and then later on add inhibitor?
 
no they are bled but the tank was empty / below the intake, thats why im wondering whether to refill and test or should i do anything else before that.
 
no they are bled but the tank was empty / below the intake, thats why im wondering whether to refill and test or should i do anything else before that.
I assume you mean below the outlet ? There is nothing to stop you from filling the f&e cistern . As the level of water in it has dropped water is obviously entering the system ,albeit at a slow rate. You need all rads full of water / bled of air ,before running the boiler. Any motorised valves should be latched manually open whilst system fills.
 
I assume you mean below the outlet ? There is nothing to stop you from filling the f&e cistern . As the level of water in it has dropped water is obviously entering the system ,albeit at a slow rate.
Thanks ill let it fill up and see if i can get water into the upstairs rads and yes sorry i meant the outlet
 
The best way to do it is to let the cistern mt, connect up the hose, put your hand over the vent, force the water back through the cold feed otherwise you will have the same problems with air ingress etc.
 
You could do with the water leaving the tank in a hurry rather than trickling out, a bung in the outlet or valve operation if you have one.

Sorry John, posting at the same time ...
 
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Any motorised valves should be latched manually open whilst system fills.

Terry, can you explain for DIYers like me ...

Q1. What position is a 3 way valve in when it's latched?
Q2. Do you need to un-latch it afterwards or does it do it itself on the next action?
Q3. What other circumstances does the manual lever come in useful?

Thanks
Ray
 

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