Alarm Component positions

[alan333]

If you don't have a keypad at an entry point then AFAIK you won't be able to arm/disarm the alarm from there. You could, AFAIK, make a "path" through the house to/from the keypad where each sensor you passed wouldn't set off the alarm until the entry/exit time elapsed, but that seems a bit "un-alarm-ish" to me. Maybe the keyfobs work over longer distances, but I'd assume they wouldn't work right through the whole house.

I seem to recall that keypads need to be wired in "daisy chain" fashion, so perhaps it would involve running a cable from the control panel to keypad 1, then a cable from keypad 1 to keypad 2 etc, rather than each keypad direct from the panel. Maybe that's why socdesign suggests only one?

 

[joe-90]

You want the control panel in the garage, it's a nightmare getting all those cables out (and possibly mains in) to an under-stairs cupboard.

You want all the PIRs in the centre of the house - ignore the windows, never had a problem in 25 years with windows.
PLUS and it's a big plus - if someone looks through a window you want to get the visual deterrence of a sensor facing them. "You break the window and the alarm goes off". That's what real security is all about - deterrence.

 

[Snagglepuss]

This is my final plan for positions.
I've left 4 Keypads in for now but will review this when i start to look at the different ways I will need to program the system.
Thanks to everyone for there input

 

[socdesign]

So, on to equipment now...

You've opted for 4 keypads - for the decent systems like the Honeywell Galaxy, these are expensive items. If you could have kept it to 3 keypads, then you could have used the G2 series and also allowed for a virtual keypad. But G2 only allows 4 keypads and virtual (Android app controlled) uses one of them. So, if you want to use Galaxy, then you'll need to step up to a Dimension panel (I wouldn't use the Flex series) - not a problem really and a great panel.

For PIR's I use the IS215TCE PIR's from Honeywell. Excellent sensors. Small, neat and very reliable.

For external sounder - go for a dual piezo 115db. The Novagard 6 is excellent. The non economy variants of Texecom sounders are dual Piezo and are also excellent.

 

[Snagglepuss]

If this isn't a stupid question what can you do with the virtual keypad?

If I can disarm the system with it then I could do away with the garage keypad!

 

[andywhit]

Do you really need keypads 2 and 3 ? Are they used regularly for access/exit in situations where you want to arm/disarm the system ?

 

[Snagglepuss]

Keypad 2 not really for entering or exiting the house via that door but is mainly there because we quite often have family and friends stop over and they sleep in that downstairs bedroom, They will need to be able to disarm the system before they could move into the main part of the house!

Keypad 3 is there because when we go for a walks we often come back with muddy boots and wellies and so enter the house via the utility and take off all the muddy stuff there before entering the main part of the house.

If there are ways around the these scenarios then I could take the keypads out.

I probably could do without the garage one because if I'm honest the car probably wont end up in the garage that often.

 

[socdesign]

The virtual keypad is basically the same as having the physical keypad, but on your phone/PC etc. You can use it to set/unset, but still need at least one keypad as a fallback for cases where you don't have your phone. Eg. In the morning when you go downstairs. I normally use mine for setting at night. Main purpose is to allow remote access to take remedial action if I receive alarm events via selfmon sms.