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Alternative to cemented undercloaking (Marley Modern)

Discussion in 'Roofing and Guttering' started by Draughtsman, 29 Nov 2020.

  1. Draughtsman

    Draughtsman

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    P_20201130_084419.jpg I have to replace the undercloaking, it's shot and falling away. I don't think much of undercloaking mortared to the underside of cantilevered tiles, I have about 3" of overhang. The mortar and undercloaking just seems to have fallen away from the underside of the tiles. Maybe support new undercloaking with clamps/batten whilst mortar is setting?

    Or is there a propeietary dry verge that can go straight on? Like an inverted dry soaker that slides over the outside edge (both under and over the tile) with a side flange that drops down past the undercloaking so that where the mortar previously was isn't even visible. Kind of an upside down dry soak with side run-off/drip feature protection?

    Thank you
     

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    Last edited: 30 Nov 2020
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  3. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Three inches is a bit much.
    However use a wider undercloak.
    It will be more rigid.
     
  4. Draughtsman

    Draughtsman

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    actually it's more like +4".
     
  5. Draughtsman

    Draughtsman

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    So really, I need to rework the barge board arrangement and bring them out, so that the undercloak overhang beyond the face of the barge board is right?

    I deally, how far should the undercloaking project out beyond the barge board face?

    Dain
     
  6. datarebal

    datarebal

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    Aim for 50mm
     
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  7. Draughtsman

    Draughtsman

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    If I pry the old barge board away, clear out the old undercloaking/cement, then some new treated 100x47 or 50x47 could go on the outer rafter to bring the face out close to where it should always have been?

    Theoritically the top of new treated would follow top of outer rafter?

    Should I drill the new cloaking board prior to nailing? Or just punch the clouts thru?

    What's the best tool to trim down one side of a cloak board if a bit has to come off?
     
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