Another downlighter thread, sorry, but advice required...

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This is my first post so please go easy on me.

I have read some threads and the general consensus is that downlights are terrible. They are not suitable for lighting a room.

However, my other half likes the clean look, and the ceilings in one particular room are low (and I am tall!) and a hanging pendant is out of the question.

So, I am proposing the following:-


http://www.screwfix.com/p/jcc-fireg...ht-satin-nickel-240v/48473#rating_link_anchor

- Fire-rated (so no fire hoods required in the loft space, and safer.)
- Adjustable (so I can angle some at the walls to reflect the light)
- GU10 fitting (obvious reasons)
- 240V (Mains, obvious reasons)


with these bulbs…

http://www.ledhut.co.uk/spot-lights...umens-45-watts-equiv-best-internet-price.html

- LED (energy efficient + lower heat generation)
- wide angle (for greater light dispersion)
- warm white (for more natural light)
- dimmable (for a bedroom)

Any thoughts please? Is what I'm proposing reasonable? Are there any practical alternatives?

Ban-all-sheds, I would appreciate your thoughts please if possible as I know you have strong opinions in these matters :D

Cheers.
 
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Ban-all-sheds, I would appreciate your thoughts please if possible as I know you have strong opinions in these matters :D
I fear that his views on downlights are very well known, very well documented and very unlikely to change - but it will be interesting to see what he says :)

Kind Regards, John
 
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Ive just put the lap gu10 5w leds in my kitchen lights and the difference is amazing, had to buy them from screwfix as i was desperate but am very impressed with them.
 
If the ceiling just points into the loft, and you've not got an open roofspace shared with next door or separate fire compartments, then I would just install standard downlights, and forget about the fire rated luminaires, which have the potential to run hotter and therefore blow more bulbs.

For low ceiling you'll need to space the spots closer of course and use lower wattage bulbs. Put them where you need them (i.e. above pillows, bed foot, in front of wardrobe/doorways and other features).
 
Can you access the loft space because you will need to ensure that there is sufficient air space around the lamp units and no insulation at all nearby.
The manufacturers instructions will give you the dimensions but it is normally around a minimum of 150mm all around.
Although LED's do not generate as much heat as halogen they still do generate heat hence the heat sink at the back - LED's do not remove the need to follow the minimum distance rules.
 
Ive just put the lap gu10 5w leds in my kitchen lights and the difference is amazing, had to buy them from screwfix as i was desperate but am very impressed with them.

That's good to hear, thanks. Effectively the same as the ones I'm proposing, slightly different wattage and beam angle but same principle.
 
If the ceiling just points into the loft, and you've not got an open roofspace shared with next door or separate fire compartments, then I would just install standard downlights, and forget about the fire rated luminaires, which have the potential to run hotter

That's a new one. It's a detached house, with one open loft space (albeit a small one at the top of the dormer room. So you think I don't needs the fire rating?
 
Can you access the loft space because you will need to ensure that there is sufficient air space around the lamp units and no insulation at all nearby.
The manufacturers instructions will give you the dimensions but it is normally around a minimum of 150mm all around.
Although LED's do not generate as much heat as halogen they still do generate heat hence the heat sink at the back - LED's do not remove the need to follow the minimum distance rules.

Understood, thanks. I can access the loft space so I shall ensure its clear in those areas.
 
So you think I don't needs the fire rating?
If the ceiling is not separating two fire compartments, then no. The building regulations will have more to say on that, and you might find more clues as to your specific case in there.

As an aside, quite how anyone can expect a 150mm clearance around a lamp between floors with 6" joists is beyond me, but it seems they do quite regularly! Many will also be restrained by 400mm joist spacing.
 
The JCC fire guard fittings are very good.

Peoples views on fitting fire rated fittings are mixed.

I would go fire rated because if you don't, the ceiling is now worse than it were before even if it wasn't documented as being fire rated, it will have offered some protection.

Plus the proper ones, such as the JCC fire rated ones will be rated for the passage of sound and moisture, where an open one may not be so good at.
 
- GU10 fitting (obvious reasons)
It goes wrong there - as you mean GU10 based lamps with MR16 envelopes, the only obvious use for those is in film projectors (where they originated) or as spotlights, when you actually want a spot of light.

If you want recessed lights, then use larger diameter ones, although given the construction I think you'll struggle to install any recessed lights without compromising the thermal insulation and the vapour barrier.

You can get thin LED panels, which could be surface mounted. Is there somewhere you could conceal a neon tube?
 
... although given the construction I think you'll struggle to install any recessed lights without compromising the thermal insulation and the vapour barrier.
Assuming, that is, that there is thermal insulation and a vapour barrier to be compromised!

Kind Regards, John
 

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