Another lintel thread...

[m0t]

I was outside today measuring for new windows (thread posted in the windows section) when my neighbour bumped in to me and asked what I was up to.

We had a chat about her new windows and she mentioned that when she had them fitted she had the original wooden frames removed which is what I want done as well. Most of the other houses on the road have had double glazed units fitted inside the existing frames.

Apparently this is because the wooden frames are supporting the exterior skin of the walls so it is more expensive (and disruptive) to remove them and put lintels in.

Whilst googling for lintels I came across a product called Helifix which sounds like an ideal solution and more in my skill range than dismantling a wall. Has anyone used this and does it work as described?

If this isn't the right product for the job what should I be using? I have seen people mention angle iron for solid walls but not sure how this sits between the inner and outer skin with the header bricks?

 

[^woody^]

It's a crap solution. The bars don't do a thing for the first 225mm of brickwork above the frame, and these bricks invariably end up loosening within a few years.

There's normally a concrete lintel on the inner half of the wall, so you just need an L shaped lintel for the external half. Angle iron is a bodge - not rust proof and too thick.

 

[m0t]

So I should be looking at something like an L10?

http://iglintels.com/lintels/standard-lintels/single-leaf-lintels/

Now you mention it I recall seeing a timber lintel above the inner leaf of the kitchen window.

Is there any way to check what's already in there (presumably just drill a hole)? I know she said that they had to put a big lintel in above her French doors but I know ours has a huge rsj above it, so not sure if the guys who did her windows were being extra cautious.

 

[^woody^]

Yes, drill a hole or two or take a brick out from the outside. If need be, then you will need either a cavity or solid wall lintel instead of just the L10 type

 

[m0t]

It's definitely a solid wall and my mums bf (who plasterboarded the kitchen) says there is definitely a wooden lintel supporting the inner leaf.

What's the benefit of pulling the wooden one out to install a full solid wall one compared to using an L10 shaped one on the outer leaf? It's a lot more destructive to take the wooden one out.

Thanks

 

[Deleted 224857]

Leave the wooden one as it is. Use 6" wide x4 " wide concrete lintel to support your external skin and bobs your uncle.

 

[^woody^]

concrete lintel

Yeah, that will look wonderful

 

[^woody^]

What's the benefit of pulling the wooden one out

The benefit is while you have the front removed, it's easier to replace the back timber lintel. Otherwise there is the risk that the timber is nearing its life end and you do the whole thing again in a few years time.

Yes you could remove the brickwork and check the timber for rot, and then decide what new lintel to buy.

 

[m0t]

My problem is that the timber lintel had the plasterboard fixed to it so if I remove it I've got to do a lot of work on the inside plus I will be in big trouble with the misses.

What's the problem with using a concrete lintel?

 

[^woody^]

Leave the timber lintel in then if it's too much work.

There is nothing wrong with a concrete lintel if you like the look of a rough grey concrete lintel. You just don't tend to see many of them for some reason though.

 

[m0t]

It's all getting rendered so will be hidden. It looks like concrete might be a little easier to do.

My main concern is not having the wall (admittedly small) fall down.

 

[m0t]

So we did this yesterday and the timber lintel was in a far worse state than expected, all damp and rotten on the outside.

Off the top of the window frame was a layer of tiles horizontal into the wall (about 3 tiles total height was one brick course). This looked to have been wicking water straight into the lintel. On top of the tiles was a a brick course then on top of that was a header course sat on the top of the timber lintel. The frame wasn't holding anything up but suspect it was supposed to hold up the tiles and first brick course.

We let the lintel dry in the sun then treated with wood preserver and rot treatment and then fitted the concrete lintel. It's now much stronger than was and I'll replace the timber lintel in a few years next time we decorate the kitchen.

Sadly my brother in law put a hammer through a double glazing panel when trying to fit the window beads so the day wasn't 100% successful.